Hokanji Temple’s Yasaka Tower Soars Imperishable above the Kyoto Cityscape
The Higashiyama sightseeing district is the pride of Kyoto, and Yasaka Tower is an indelible icon of its beautiful skyline. Yasaka Tower’s official name is “Go-ju-no-to,” simply translating to “Five-storied Pagoda.” Part of the Hokanji temple complex, it is said to have been built in 592 by Prince Shotoku of the Imperial Family. It stands approximately 46 meters high, and was rebuilt in 1440 under sixth shogun Yoshinori Ashikaga. Its gochi-nyorai central icons of worship are nationally designated important cultural properties.
Hokanji’s five-story pagoda is the oldest standing pagoda in Kyoto
Hokanji Temple’s deputy head priest Shundo Asano was born and raised at the temple. He guides domestic and international visitors alike on tours of the normally off-limits temple interior, gives talks on the history of the temple and its five-story pagoda, and works to convey the charm his position and history make him privy to. His duties include visits to Kenninji Temple, the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, built in 1202 and famous for its gardens and the famous souryuzu dragon painting on its ceiling.
Growing up Playing in the Temple Grounds, Drawn Naturally to the Path of Buddhism
“The temple grounds were my playground as a child, so while the place was always close to my heart, I never saw it as having a rarefied air,” says Asano. His first name, Shundo, was given to him by his grandfather – who passed away when he was only three months old. Its first character, “shun,” refers to the mythical messenger horse from Buddhist lore. Its second character, “do” means “way” and refers to the monk’s path. “As a child I didn’t like my name, because it sounded like a monk’s name. But as I got older and heard people say it was a good name, I started to feel like it was my grandfather looking out for me.
A tranquil temple atmosphere in the middle of the city
Although Asano and his brother helped out regularly around the temple, their father chief priest Masao Asano never outright told them to take up the cloth. The turning point came when Shundo’s elder brother graduated from high school and started his career in the culinary world. Shundo heard his father remark that, “without a successor, the family will have to leave this place.” Asano remembers his reaction: “I didn’t yet understand the greatness of Hokanji, but it made me sad to think that we’d lose the home we grew up in.”
Taking the Cloth, Reaffirming the Value of the Temple
Asano’s duties encompass both the iconic Hokanji temple and the sect’s main temple Kenninji. Spending his days interacting with sightseers has convinced him that “While many people visit temples, not many are keenly aware of why they exist. The five-storied Yasaka Tower is a famous visual landmark of the Higashiyama area, but few know what it actually is.”
Taking in Asano’s story in the peace and beauty of the Hokanji temple grounds
Prince Shotoku is said to have built Yasaka Tower with a holy relic in its central pillar after being visited by Nyoirin Kannon in a dream. Although the pagoda has been destroyed repeatedly by lightning and fire, it has been reconstructed each time and continues to watch over Higashiyama. Today it still stands in the same location, protected not only as an urban landmark but also for its religious significance.
Climbing to the top of the tower – normally off limits even when the temple is open – reveals the august features within
Asano arranges these special tour experiences to Hokanji and Kenninji because he hopes “to raise awareness of the actual meaning underlying these grand temples, and why they survive over the ages.” He guides visitors with the hopes that they will leave with treasured lifelong memories.
Giving Visitors “Time to Find their Path” with Experience as Food for Thought
Zen teaching can seem intimidating, but Asano is known for his accessible explanations. “It’s incredibly valuable to discover the stories of these historic Kyoto temples,” he says of the special tours.
Spring brings crowds looking to feast their eyes on the tower framed by cherry blossoms
Asano himself discovered the value of knowledge during his days in training. “The old masters loved to use the phrase ‘become one.’ Become one with your broom to clean more effectively. The idea that deep thinking leads us to understanding the true essences of things. Humans tend to look for easy answers, but the world is full of things that don’t have a single easy answer. Deep engagement is the first step to Zen, and it requires experience.”
The pagoda as seen from the beautiful cobblestone streets of Ninei-zaka
“I try to share the things I’ve learned, wisdom that has stuck with me, in my talks with visitors. I hope that it sticks with them too, and serves useful in overcoming difficulties they may later face.” Asano believes that extraordinary experiences serve an important purpose in life’s ups and downs.
Striving to Convey, Seeking Deeper Connections
Asano is driven by his desire to foster both broader and deeper appreciation for Kyoto’s temples. He prefers to convey ideas in his own words because he wants to impart an understanding of the essence of these temples and why they exist. “I want to create a platform for bringing people into the faith, and explore ways to spread the word.”
Asano’s words inspire a new appreciation for the allure of Kyoto’s temples
Hokanji and Kenninji enjoy a timeless popularity in Kyoto. Asano invites you to enjoy them not only as sightseeing draws, but also as places to learn and ponder the deeper essence and significance behind them.
Hokanji
Hokanji is a Zen temple of the Kennin-ji school, part of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism. It is said to have been built in 592 by Prince Shotoku of the Imperial Family. Its Yasaka Tower (official named “Go-ju-no-to,” literally “Five-storied Pagoda”) which stands approximately 46 meters tall, was rebuilt in 1440 under sixth shogun Yoshinori Ashikaga. The temple’s Gochi-nyorai central icons of worship are nationally designated important cultural properties.
