Zen Morning at Uji’s Hozenin Temple with Zazen, Buddhist Teachings, and Herbal Breakfast

A Moment of Morning Reflection at a Branch Temple of Manpuku-Ji in the Obaku School

About 25 minutes by train from Kyoto City, in Uji, stands the majestic Manpuku-ji, the head temple of the Obaku Zen school of Buddhism. One of its branch temples is the serene Hozenin, founded in 1690 by Dokushin Shoei, a Zen master highly renowned for his virtues and wisdom.

Enshrined in the main hall of Hozenin are the principal deity of Shakyamuni Buddha (the revered founder of Buddhism), flanked by attendant figures: master Dokushin and Hoan Joei, who served as the 23rd chief priest of Manpuku-ji. Master Hoan maintained a close relationship with the Edo-period (1603 – 1867) painter Ito Jakuchu, whose carefully preserved portrait of Hoan is today one of the treasures of Manpuku-ji.

Stepping into the grounds of Hozenin with its sea of green moss, you’ll find yourself traversing a tranquil stroll garden centered on pines and maple where stillness reigns supreme. Also known as the “Guardian Deity and Zodiac Temple,” Hozenin’s precincts enshrine the Eight Guardian Buddhas of the Zodiac. Each person is assigned a guardian deity based on their birth-year, whose role is to protect and guide you. Paying respects here is said to bring peace and stability to one’s life. Revered for easing suffering and helping people find their path, the temple draws many worshippers from afar every year.

This plan offers a peaceful inner journey at Hozenin, enveloped in the stillness of the morning. Through a Buddhist talk, zazen seated meditation, and restorative herbal cuisine, you engage firsthand with Zen teachings and gaze within in a tranquil setting.

Zen Teachings That Resonate Directly in the Heart at the Start of the Day

The experience begins early in the morning. Seated in the quiet main hall, you listen to a Buddhist talk by the head or deputy head priest as soft sunlight filters in. Zen phrases are introduced in easy-to-understand terms connected to everyday events and familiar scenes. It’s a chance to let go of everyday worries and learn practical ways of living more calmly. Since the content of the talk changes with the season, each visit offers new insights.

One Japanese Zen term often discussed in Buddhist talks is “zanmai.” It means dedicating yourself fully to a single task with undivided attention. While the mind is typically swirling with many thoughts throughout the day, Zen aims to direct awareness to the present moment. Zanmai also refers to that state of concentration. This quiet morning talk is not only for listening. It’s also an opportunity to face yourself, reflect inwardly, and engage with Zen teachings to learn practical wisdom for bringing the mind into balance.

Align Your Breathing and Spirit During Seated Meditation Surrounded by Fragrant Incense

After the Buddhist talk, you will experience seated meditation. Many associate it with rigid postures but, as the deputy head priest explains, crossing both legs is not the only form of zazen. For those who find the position difficult, crossing one leg is also acceptable, and the practice can even be performed while sitting in a chair. The incense burned in the hall is also derived from Zen teachings as it embodies the idea of “Nenge Misho,” which teaches us to value unspoken communication that goes beyond words.

In a smoky incense-filled space, you’ll learn how to regulate your breathing and slowly clear your mind. Then, you will be able to look within and face yourself, a rare opportunity in today’s busy, modern world. “Quiet your breath and concentrate your emotions in the abdomen. By letting them circulate freely, your mind will settle like water while the noise sinks to the bottom like sediment.” Sit in stillness and feel nothing but your breath, the mind gradually calming and composure emerging. Those who desire a full, authentic Zen experience can also ask for the priest to use a traditional keisaku wooden stick to correct their posture and keep them concentrated.

Savor a Special Morning Meal Featuring Obaku-Style Monk Cuisine

After zazen, the constant stream of thoughts should quiet, and your senses should sharpen. Next, you’ll enjoy a special breakfast prepared by monks who serve as “Tenzo Osho” (cooks in Zen temples.)

The main dish is a restorative herbal porridge that changes with the seasons. Said to offer “ten virtues,” it has long been valued as sustenance during temple training as it warms the body, aids digestion, and calms the mind. Ingredients feature seasonal, health-focused produce, resulting in a gentle, invigorating taste.

Two to three varieties of side dishes and seasonal pickles accompany the meal. On the day of our visit, the side dish was atsuage, deep-fried firm tofu from a shop near the temple, finished with a light sauce. The pickles change monthly, offering new flavors to repeat guests.

After the meal, herbal tea is served. It uses ingredients such as goji berries, white fungus, jujube, and luo han guo, with blends adjusted according to the season. In traditional Chinese medicine, keeping the body warm is fundamental, so the tea is served hot even in summer.

Experience a Peaceful Morning at a Zen Temple in Uji and Aligning Your Body, Mind, and Breath

As a parting gift, each guest receives a goshuin seal stamp inscribed with the name of their personal guardian deity. The goshuin features charming depictions of the 12 Chinese Zodiac signs and includes a Wabunka-exclusive silver Zodiac seal. A goshuin booklet with hand-written calligraphy is also available for purchase. We recommend concluding the experience with a quiet prayer to your guardian deity.

Refine your breathing through zazen. Revitalize your body through restorative herbal porridge. Bring your mind into alignment through this Wabunka-exclusive experience. By the time you depart the temple, you will have firsthand knowledge of the principles of zazen: regulating the body, breath, and mind. In today’s busy world, there are few moments to attend to one’s breathing or inner peace. A still garden, branch temples steeped in history, wafting incense, and a deeply nourishing morning meal all come together in quiet harmony to help you clear your mind and achieve a sense of fulfillment.

After the experience, visit the nearby Manpuku-ji head temple, or take a walk to the lively Uji Bridge area and look out over the Uji River from one of Japan’s oldest bridges, or follow the tea-scented approach toward the World Heritage Site of Byodo-in Temple. With body and mind aligned in the crisp morning of the temple grounds, you can step back into your everyday life with peace and quiet in your heart.