Explore 400 Years of Tradition at a Soy Sauce Brewery and Somen Noodle Factory on Shodoshima and Savor the Island’s Delicious Cuisine

The Many Treasures of Shodoshima, a Special Island in the Seto Inland Sea 

Between three of the four main islands of Japan — Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu – is a body of water known as the Seto Inland Sea, with clear azure waters and archipelagos of small islands that have led some to call it the Aegean Sea of the East. Western geologists who visited Japan in the 19th century are said to have praised it as the most beautiful sea in the world. There are over 700 islands scattered throughout the Seto Inland Sea, with Shodoshima the second largest and boasting fine resorts as well as a rich cultural heritage. 

With blue skies and crystal clear waters, the Seto Inland Sea is a welcoming destination throughout the year

Your journey to Shodoshima begins on the sea itself, catching one of the regular ferries or high-speed ferries that travel to the island from ports in Hyogo, Okayama, and Kagawa. Onboard, revel in the gentle sea breeze as you gaze out on the unique scenery of the Seto Inland Sea. As you approach Shodoshima, take note of its stunning mountainous landscape, which features some of the most beautiful valleys in Japan, particularly Kankakei at the island’s center. From the moment you set foot on the island, it is all waiting there for you.

Discover the Living Tradition of Traditional Soy Sauce Brewing on Shodoshima 

Soy sauce production is one of Shodoshima’s traditional industries, handed down through the generations for over 400 years. Yamaroku Soy Sauce is one brewery on the island that has chosen to continue to employ traditional wooden barrels, an extremely rare process these days that now accounts for just 1% of soya sauce brewed in Japan. You will visit the 100-year-old Moromi-gura warehouse for a tour through this rare traditional process. Inside the warehouse you will find 80 cedar barrels, each taller than a human being, some in use since the founding of the brewery.

Located in a residential area, Yamaroku Soy Sauce fills the air with the rich aroma of soy sauce

The Moromi-gura warehouse is a one-storey wooden building with clay walls and a packed dirt floor. “Yeast and lactic acid bacteria are essential in soy sauce production,” explains facility guide Yukako Sarada. “These microorganisms inhabit not only the wooden barrels themselves, but live in the wooden beams, the clay of the walls, and soil beneath us.” In many ways Moromi-gura is a living, breathing reservoir not of soy sauce, which comes and goes, but of the microorganisms that give continual life to its production.

These wooden barrels hold a 100-year history of soy sauce production within their Yoshino cedar slats

Because soy sauce relies on live microorganisms, it must be monitored 365 days a year. This begins with the manual processing and mixing of the mash (moromi) so that it can rapidly ferment through spring and summer. From there, one of the processes used at the brewery is to age unpasteurized soy sauce known as kijoyu for 1-2 years before returning it to the barrel to brew for another 2-3 years. As you tour the warehouse, you may start to sense the time and dedication required to produce the finest soy sauce in Japan. 

Enjoy a tasting session at Yamaroku Soy Sauce featuring all their signature products including hatsushibori, the batch of soy sauce created in the first press of the moromi mash

Shodoshima’s Hand-pulled Somen Noodles, as Beautiful and Delicate as Silk Threads

Somen noodles are made by stretching wheat flour into thin strands, which are then dried. One technique used to create some is hand-pulling the noodles, which was introduced to Shodoshima nearly 400 years ago. The Shodoshima somen factory Fujii Mengyou still uses this traditional hand-pulled method to produce somen noodles renowned for their superior flavor, firmness, and texture. This Wabunka experience offers exclusive access to Fuji Mengyo’s manufacturing area, which is not usually open to public viewing.

Inside the Fujii Mengyou somen factory, normally only accessible to factory staff

Shodoshima’s hand-pulled somen noodles are made using the finest carefully-selected wheat flour, sesame oil, and salt, with the dough at Fujii Mengyou aged for a time to result in richer, fuller flavors. This dough is twisted to make it thinner, wrapped two chopsticks in a figure eight and then left to age further. The unique firmness of Shodoshima’s hand-pulled somen noodles is attributed to the meticulous care in these steps in the process.

The neatly aligned noodles glow in the low light in a scene reminiscent of an art gallery

The rolled dough is then stretched as high as an adult human, then draped over a hata, which is a specific drying rack made especially for somen. To counter the effects of humidity, the noodles are carefully separated by hand on the rack one by one to prevent tangling. When you catch sight of all those slender noodles stretched out over the hata to dry, it is easy to appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship that goes into creating such a scene.

A Restaurant Devoted to Sustainability in a Renovated Former Somen Noodle Factory

Following your tour of two manufacturing sites at the root of Shodoshima’s rich food culture, it is time to head to the seaside restaurant SEASiON. Designed by Ken Tsukajima, an architect known for his work in Tokyo and Osaka as well as internationally in Mexico, Kenya, Bali, and the UK, SEASiON was constructed within a decommissioned somen noodle factory, making use of as much of the original building and its materials as possible. Opened in 2021, the restaurant is fast becoming a local center that connects island residents and local businesses while promoting new forward-thinking ideas.  

Architect Ken Tsukashima opened SEASiON to breathe new cultural life into Shodoshima, a place he began visiting from a young age

Spurred on by Tsukashima’s profound appreciation of art, a wide variety of artworks can be found throughout SEASiON. The second floor of the building was previously used as an art gallery and is currently hosting an installation by the Mexican artist YupicA.

YupicA’s installation features images from the beautiful Shodoshima rice fields of Nakayama Senmaida

The world of YupicA’s unique art will enthrall and enchant you. His installation makes use of actual rice grains harvested from Nakayama Senmaida in Shodoshima’s rice growing region of Nakayama, which includes stunning rice terraces that have been recognized among the finest in all of Japan. Using resin, the artist solidified these rice grains into hard plates and connected them to form a screen onto which images of Shodoshima could be projected.  

A Feast for the Senses and a Journey into the Food Culture of Shodoshima

SEASiON works hand in hand with the local community when it comes to food and sustainability. This approach is sincerely reflected in the meals they serve, making every effort possible to be environmentally conscious by ensuring that as little as possible goes to waste. One example of this approach is SEASiON’s use of residual moromi from the 150-year-old Yamaroku Soy Sauce brewery, which the restaurant uses cleverly in their chicken dishes. Chicken marinated in moromi benefits from the yeast and lactic acid bacteria in terms of taste and texture. “It’s great when things come together like this based on our commitment to sustainability,” explains Tsukashima.

Adding salt to residual moromi, which would otherwise be discarded, makes it reusable in food preparation

You will find a wide variety of innovative and creatively-inspired dishes on the menu at SEASiON, featuring an abundance of ingredients that reflect the local food culture of Shodoshima. One popular choice is the local brand Olive Beef, which uses olive-fed wagyu beef produced from cattle reared on the island itself and fed olive pulp to improve the taste and marbling of their meat. If you’d like, you can choose Olive Beef for the main dish in your meal as an added option to this Wabunka itinerary. While creative in their inspiration, the flavors at the restaurant are relatively simple, combining the cool sophistication of fine dining with the warm satisfaction of a home-cooked meal.

SEASiON's popular wood barrel-aged soy sauce chicken (left), local catch of the day (right)
*Food may not appear exactly as pictured

Explore the Abundance Produced by Shodoshima’s Land, Sea, and Culture

On Shodoshima, everything happens with the spectacular backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea close at hand, shifting with the tides, the seasons, and the time of day. As you explore the natural wonders of the island, culminating with your meal at SEASiON, take time to explore the deep connection here between the local culture and its food with the land and the sea all around. 

Slow down to island time, bathed in gentle sunlight and cooled by the sea breeze

The food culture of Shodoshima is inextricably linked with nature, buoyed by the blessing of a gentle climate and a people who respect the bounty that the natural world bestows. Your meal at SEASiON will help you draw together your experiences on the island: what you saw, what you learned, what you felt.