Explore the Spectacular Rice Terraces of Shodoshima and Setouchi Triennale Festival Art along with the Island’s Fine Cuisine

The Many Treasures of Shodoshima, a Special Island in the Seto Inland Sea 

Between three of the four main islands of Japan — Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu – is a body of water known as the Seto Inland Sea, with clear azure waters and archipelagos of small islands that have led some to call it the Aegean Sea of the East. Western geologists who visited Japan in the 19th century are said to have praised it as the most beautiful sea in the world. There are over 700 islands scattered throughout the Seto Inland Sea, with Shodoshima the second largest and boasting fine resorts as well as a rich cultural heritage. 

With blue skies and crystal clear waters, the Seto Inland Sea is a welcoming destination throughout the year

Your journey to Shodoshima begins on the sea itself, catching one of the regular ferries or high-speed ferries that travel to the island from ports in Hyogo, Okayama, and Kagawa. Onboard, revel in the gentle sea breeze as you gaze out on the unique scenery of the Seto Inland Sea. As you approach Shodoshima, take note of its stunning mountainous landscape, which features some of the most beautiful valleys in Japan, particularly Kankakei at the island’s center. From the moment you set foot on the island, it is all waiting there for you.

Setouchi Triennale Festival’s Art Installations Blend Seamlessly into the Island’s Natural Landscape 

Held on Shodoshima every three years since it was first launched in 2010, the Setouchi Triennale has rapidly grown into one of the main events on Japan’s art festival calendar. Tonosho Port, where many travelers first land on the island, is home to a diverse collection of art from the festival, including outdoor art installations such a large gilded olive wreath, undulating metal waves, and sculptures reminiscent of human faces. These installations have been placed along the promenade of the port, blending seamlessly into the landscape the town and island beyond.

“Gift of the Sun” by South Korean artist Choi Jeong Hwa

One particularly striking work by world-renowned Japanese fashion designer Junko Koshino is on display inside the port terminal, which depicts the infinite possibilities of a female figure, clad in a dress worn at a fashion show in 1990. Imbued with a startling sense of dynamism and life, this acrylic resin sculpture had its constituent parts produced by a 3D printer. 

This dynamic work of art by Junko Koshino was created using cutting-edge 3D printer technology

The Rice Terraces of Nakayama Senmaida, where Art and Nature Converge

Located in the mountainous center of Shodoshima, the rice terraces of the Nakayama Senmaida are composed of nearly 800 rice fields of various shapes and sizes. With a landscape that changes with the seasons from the sowing of the seeds in spring to the autumn harvest, the terraces resemble a work of art shaped by man and nature. You can also visit a large bamboo sculpture by Taiwanese artist Wang Wen-Chih amongst the rice terraces and enter its dome-shaped interior to feel at one with your surroundings in the Nakayama Senmaida.

The graceful curves of the Nakayama Senmaida rice terraces overlap in different shades of green

En route to Nakayama Senmaida in the Hitoyama region, you can visit an art installation entitled “Shishigaki Island” (“Island of Stone Walls”) by Saito Masato that pays tribute to Shodoshima’s legacy of stone walls, which were constructed roughly two centuries ago all around the island to protect crops from deer and wild boar. Portions of the original walls are also still visible.

“Shishigaki Island” by Saito Masato paystribute to the island and its ancient stone walls, constructed to protect crops from wild animals

Masato’s 4-meter sculpture “Shishigaki Island” is a pyramid that consists of a stone base reminiscent of the protective walls of the island. The upper half is painted with colors that represent Shodoshima and a small ceramic castle keep stands atop it all. A nearby bench is the perfect spot from which to admire the sculpture and its spectacular surroundings.

A Restaurant Devoted to Sustainability in a Renovated Former Somen Noodle Factory

Having explored the deep symbiosis between art and nature on Shodoshima, it is time to head to the seaside restaurant SEASiON. Designed by Ken Tsukajima, an architect known for his work in Tokyo and Osaka as well as internationally in Mexico, Kenya, Bali, and the UK, SEASiON was constructed within a decommissioned somen noodle factory, making use of as much of the original building and its materials as possible. Opened in 2021, the restaurant is fast becoming a local center that connects island residents and local businesses while promoting new forward-thinking ideas.  

Architect Ken Tsukashima opened SEASiON to breathe new cultural life into Shodoshima, a place he began visiting from a young age

Spurred on by Tsukashima’s profound appreciation of art, a wide variety of artworks can be found throughout SEASiON. The second floor of the building was previously used as an art gallery and is currently hosting an installation by the Mexican artist YupicA.

YupicA’s installation features images from the beautiful Shodoshima rice fields of Nakayama Senmaida

The world of YupicA’s unique art will enthrall and enchant you. His installation makes use of actual rice grains harvested from Nakayama Senmaida in Shodoshima’s rice growing region of Nakayama, which includes stunning rice terraces that have been recognized among the finest in all of Japan. Using resin, the artist solidified these rice grains into hard plates and connected them to form a screen onto which images of Shodoshima could be projected.  

A Feast for the Senses and a Journey into the Food Culture of Shodoshima

SEASiON works hand in hand with the local community when it comes to food and sustainability. This approach is sincerely reflected in the meals they serve, making every effort possible to be environmentally conscious by ensuring that as little as possible goes to waste. One example of this approach is SEASiON’s use of residual moromi from the 150-year-old Yamaroku Soy Sauce brewery, which the restaurant uses cleverly in their chicken dishes. Chicken marinated in moromi benefits from the yeast and lactic acid bacteria in terms of taste and texture. “It’s great when things come together like this based on our commitment to sustainability,” explains Tsukashima.

Adding salt to residual moromi, which would otherwise be discarded, makes it reusable in food preparation

You will find a wide variety of innovative and creatively-inspired dishes on the menu at SEASiON, featuring an abundance of ingredients that reflect the local food culture of Shodoshima. One popular choice is the local brand Olive Beef, which uses olive-fed wagyu beef produced from cattle reared on the island itself and fed olive pulp to improve the taste and marbling of their meat. If you’d like, you can choose Olive Beef for the main dish in your meal as an added option to this Wabunka itinerary. While creative in their inspiration, the flavors at the restaurant are relatively simple, combining the cool sophistication of fine dining with the warm satisfaction of a home-cooked meal.

(left)SEASiON’s popular wood barrel-aged soy sauce chicken
(right)The restaurant also features local catch of the day (hirame flounder in this case) *Food may not appear exactly as pictured

Slow Down to the Pace of Island Life and Connect with Art and Nature

A voyage to Shodoshima offers the chance to slow down to the relaxed pace of island life so that you can appreciate the value of art and nature and explore the deep connection between the two. Finishing with a meal at the cafe-restaurant SEASiON is the perfect way to draw your journey together, all with the spectacular backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea, shifting with the tides, the seasons, and the time of day. This trip gives you time to cherish the gifts of nature and human ingenuity through art, delicious cuisine, and the beauty of the island itself.

Slow down to island time, bathed in gentle sunlight and cooled by the sea breeze