[1 Night] Soothe Body and Mind at Izu’s Historic Nationally Registered Heritage Ryokan, “Ochiairo”

A Close-up Encounter with Japan’s Primordial Natural Landscape

Bounded on three sides by the sea, Izu Peninsula is lush with nature and natural hot springs. It is also famous as the place in which first Japanese Nobel Prize in Literature winner Yasunari Kawabata wrote his 1927 masterpiece The Izu Dancer – as well as for being the setting and geographical namesake of the piece.
Easily accessible from Tokyo by Shinkansen, and resplendent with the twin charms of both sea and mountain ranges, it has also recently become a popular destination for overseas tourists. Near its geographical heart sits the Amagi Yugashima hot springs, popular for their hideaway sanctuary atmosphere.

With a long history as a spa retreat, this spring has soothed countless visitors mind and body alike since the Edo Period

Local fixture Ochiairo is the venue for this experience: a quiet, elegant, and historic ryokan inn of the Yugashima hot springs. Its nearest station Mishima can be reached by direct Shinkansen from central Tokyo, and nearby Shuzenji station can be reached by express or local train from central Tokyo. Ochiairo offers a private car service from both (for an additional charge). Interested guests might also enquire about reaching the site from Tokyo by helicopter for a bird’s eye view of the uniquely spectacular landscape.

Ochiairo’s main entrance, with a noren shop curtain pigmented with natural dyes which age with wabi-sabi beauty

Shop Curtain Swaying in Seasonal Breezes: Your Gateway to the Truly Extraordinary

Founded in 1874 2024 marks Ochiai’s 150th anniversary. Officially designated as a national tangible cultural heritage site for its history and architecture in 1999, this historic lodging underwent partial renovation in 2019 while retaining its traditional design and aesthetic. 2024 saw it awarded a Michelin Key in the Michelin Guide Hotel Selection, which recognizes hotels for outstanding stays.

Starting in 1933, the facility underwent a large-scale, multi-year renovation – today sections of the property are registered as a national tangible cultural heritage site

Upon checking in, an elegant sanctuary awaits behind the noren curtain, casting the hustle and bustle of city life far away indeed. A mere 16 guest rooms sprawl across an expansive 13,000-square meter perimeter ensconced in natural beauty. Each of these rooms faces the central garden, and is embraced by the soothing gurgles of the Kano River – offering a true sense of oneness with nature and its changing seasons.

Crackling firewood reverberates across the check-in lounge during seasonal chill, warming bones and soul alike

Ochiairo features three hot spring varieties flowing directly from their source, two styles of saunas, and a library room with a collection of masterworks by historical greats. Its garden, filled with greenery and a delightful suspension bridge, is a delight for relaxing walks to take in the sunlight filtering through the trees. No matter who you are, you’re bound to find your own beloved corner.

The Ochiairo garden reveals a face for each season

Vast grounds and sumptuous facilities notwithstanding, the highlight of a stay at Ochiairo just might be the dining. Lounge in private luxury taking in the gorgeous views from your room while relishing scrumptious seasonal meal courses that burst with fresh-harvested seasonal ingredients from the mountains of Izu and the waters of Suruga and Sagami Bays. Izu’s own local wasabi is especially not to be missed: perfectly complementing any main ingredient with a refreshing balance of piquancy and sweetness, it packs so much flavor that many relish it on its own alone with plain white rice.

Seasonal delights fresh from the sea and mountainside bounties unique to Izu

Craftsmanship Around Every Corner

Beautiful design details and craft touches permeating the building inspired master poets and novelists of ages past – and continue to captivate the visitors of today. Each of the hotel’s 16 rooms features its own unique design, oozing the finest contemporary craftsmanship.

Even the bathroom lamps are delicately crafted, with latticework bellflower designs

Kumiko latticework is one such design flourish – a traditional artform which produces masterful wood latticework without the use of a single nail. Introduced to Japan some 14 centuries ago, kumiko has been perfected and passed down by artisans ever since. Find its masterpieces adorning the shoji screens in each room, emanating craft soul and proud tradition.

The kumiko design on the shoji screen of the Tsuyukusa (“dayflower”) room, depicting a net cast to catch good fortune, as well as Mount Fuji, which here symbolizes business prosperity

Luxuriate in hot springs flowing directly from the source: a Yugashima specialty. Among the ryokan three uniquely designed hot spring baths, Tengu no Yu (“The tengu’s bath”) is the most popular for its natural cave-style walls built of lava stone over 90 years ago. This is a singular, timeless hot spring atmosphere unlike anywhere else. 

Tengu no Yu, built to invoke gold mining – once a major industry in this area – is the perfect place to enjoy a dip in natural river water

The "Chashitsu Sauna" (“Tearoom Sauna”) is a 2019 addition. Here, guests delight in sauna steam produced by pouring hot spring water on sauna stones reminiscent of the action of pouring hot water over a tea kettle. The sauna’s entrance evokes a traditional Japanese tea room, and its entire structure is made of glass for an unparalleled sensation of unity with the natural surroundings.

A Wabunka Exclusive Special Tour of This Registered Tangible Cultural Heritage Site

Interested guests can participate in the Wabunka-exclusive Cultural Heritage Private Tour of the property with English language guidance, delving into areas that regular tours don’t. (Please indicate your preferred tour time when making your reservation.) This is a rare chance to see places up-close not covered in the regular tours, as well as view historical photos and documents which are usually inaccessible to the public, all carefully preserved since the ryokan’s founding, bringing to life a time when many skilled palace carpenters are remembered to have resided in Izu. You’ll leave with unforgettable memories of this glimpse into the lives and passions that these artisans poured into the construction of Ochiairo.

The spacious Shitaen no Ma (“Rosewood Room”) is defined by the powerful presence of 2,000 year-old rosewood features sourced from the woodlands of Taiwan

Even if almost a century has passed since the last full renovation, no part of the ryokan feels particularly dated – despite pieces of history continually turning up like the recently-rediscovered 1938 issue of the New York Times belonging to the prior owner, who designed the interior. Perhaps it was the cutting-edge technology and design sensibilities brought to the renovation at the time that have made the facility age so well. In any case, there is no substitute for experiencing the stories and history of this place firsthand through the Cultural Heritage Private Tour.

The dining service room stairwell, with intersecting staircases which prevent servers and guests from ever encountering one another

Unchain The Senses; Soothe Mind and Body

The hospitality of Ochiairo draws on a simple concept: “Even if only for the moments they’re here, every visitor should experience freedom from the demands of the day-to-day.” Here, you can soak in the hot springs and bask in the natural richness unfolding before you, taking in the gurgling of the river and the chirps of its birds. You can awake into morning sunlight shimmering down through treetops, and embark on a dining voyage of discovery of Japan’s four seasons. But most of all, you’ll luxuriate in an unforgettable experience unlike anywhere else on earth.

A sumptuous stay in which time seems to slow, soothing mind and body

Reward yourself for all that you sacrifice – or simply carve out some quality time to be with your loved ones – surrounded by lush nature and timeless history that takes you away from it all, and reconnects you with the joys of being alive.