Your interpreter-guide will meet you at JR Hiroshima Station, accompanying you in a private car for the drive to Takehara, a journey of approximately 90 minutes. When you arrive at Takehara Port, pause for a moment to appreciate the view across the Seto Inland Sea and breathe the fresh salt sea air. You will then board a ferry to take you to the nearby island of Osaki-Kamijima, a pleasant journey of about 30 minutes.

Once you have boarded the ferry, sit back and relax as you admire the striking blue of the sea and sky offset by the verdant green of the surrounding islands. While some islands in the Seto Inland Sea are now linked by bridges, many are still only accessible by boat, including Osaki-Kamijima and Osaki-Shimojima. Such islands, however, tend to retain more of the traditional culture of the region, as you will find as you continue your journey.

After your ferry docks on Osaki-Kamijima Island, a short drive will take you to Okamoto Soy Sauce Brewery. Founded in 1932, this family-owned soy sauce brewery still uses traditional brewing implements and all-natural brewing methods handed down through the generations. Your guide on a private tour of the brewery will be third-generation master brewer Yasufumi Okamoto, who will show you around the facility as he explains the brewing process.

Okamoto’s own story is a compelling one. He actually left his island home as a young man to attend university, but decided to return to continue his family legacy. He has remained committed to continuing the traditional brewing methods of his predecessors, with natural environmental fluctuations in temperature inducing the necessary fermentation and aging of the soybeans inside old cedar barrels to create the unfiltered mash known as moromi. This moromi is stirred using long wooden paddles, a process that you can try yourself with Okamoto’s guidance.

Your tour will conclude with the opportunity to taste the three varieties of soy sauce brewed by Okamoto. Usukuchi (light soy sauce) is the mildest, best for soups and vegetables, while koikuchi (dark soy sauce) possesses a richness suited to teriyaki and stewed dishes. The uniquely robust flavor of saishikomi (double-brewed soy sauce) make it a popular choice for dipping sashimi, sushi, and gyoza.

After your tasting experience, you will take home a mini-bottle of special drip-extracted soy sauce as a souvenir that is available only to brewery visitors. Okamoto will provide you with recommendations on the best ways to use it.

Following your tour of Okamoto Soy Sauce Brewery, you will board another ferry for the brief 15-minute journey to Osaki-Shimojima Island where you will spend the night in the heart of the historic port town of Mitarai at Kangetsu-an Shintoyo. Constructed in the late Edo period (1603-1868), Kangetsu-an Shintoyo operated as a traditional inn for many decades, continuing to welcome guests until the 1930s. Renovated in recent years, Kangetsu-an Shintoyo offers stylish modern comforts alongside a true historic setting shared by all those travelers who passed through Mitarai so many years ago. And because the inn only accepts one group per day, you will have it all to yourself.

The building itself retains much of its original design, including wooden pillars and beams as well as lattice doors typical of the region’s traditional architecture. Viewed through the antique glass of the inn’s windows, the islands of the Seto Inland Sea and the blue of water and sky seem to waver and bend depending on the light. You may wonder for a moment whether the view is real or the product of an artist’s paintbrush.

The interior of Kangetsu-an Shintoyo has been meticulously renovated to ensure that guests can relax in style and comfort. Both spacious bedrooms retain a traditional Japanese aesthetic while providing king-size and queen-size Western-style beds so that you can get a comfortable night’s sleep. Modern Western-style bedding is also provided.

Meals served at Kangetsu-an Shintoyo feature an abundance of unique local ingredients that can only be found in and around the Seto Inland Sea. Seafood is sourced directly from local fishermen, while the selection of local fruits and vegetables varies with the seasons to ensure that everything is fresh and ripe. As you will be the only ones staying at the property, dinner and breakfast will be prepared for you by your own personal chef, allowing you to appreciate the skill and artistry involved in each dish. Accommodations can be made to suit each guest’s preferences in terms of ingredients, portions, and pacing.

Mealtimes at Kangetsu-an Shitoyo provide you with time to reflect and relax, savoring the flavors of the region’s finest ingredients as you contemplate where you are and where you’ve been. In recognition of these precious moments, guests are given exclusive access to local sake, complimentary Hiroshima whiskey and craft gin, and special seasonal menus.

After breakfast on your second day, your host at Kangetsu-an Shintoyo, owner Akira Inoue, will give you a special 90-minute private walking tour around the town of Mitarai. Inoue began as a volunteer guide in Mitarai before going on to renovate eight vacant buildings and develop several local businesses. His in-depth tour will not only teach you about the unique local history and culture of the town but also emphasize the island’s relaxed pace of life, far removed from the ever-moving, ever-changing modern urban world.

The first main stop on your tour will be the temple of Daito-ji. Founded in 1735 with its current main hall built in 1856, Daito-ji Temple possesses a particularly exquisite set of wooden carvings that were fashioned from a single zelkova tree by a craftsman from Kyoto. In the temple courtyard, a large camphor tree stands, holding silent vigil as it has for 300 years.

Your tour will take you next to the former residence of the Kaneko family, a wealthy merchant family that was influential in the town of Mitarai throughout much of the 19th century. Built in 1823, the residence includes an elegant tea room that was originally constructed in Kyoto before being taken apart and shipped to Mitarai where it was reassembled inside the residence. This tea room was the site of several important political meetings, including the signing of the Mitarai Treaty in 1867 between military commanders from Choshu (present-day Yamaguchi) and Hiroshima.

Shinko Clock Shop will be the last stop on your tour of Mitarai. Founded in the mid-1700s as a store dealing in rice and other general trade goods, the shop began selling clocks and watches in the latter part of the 19th century to respond to the growing need within this busy port town to keep accurate time. Inside the current building, which dates back to 1919, the fifth-generation owner continues to sell clocks and watches, as well as repairing these precious instruments with the delicate touch of a master craftsman. Inside the shop, you will find a large American-made grandfather clock, which is over 100 years old.

After the conclusion of your tour, please check out from your accommodation by 11:00. A private car will take you to JR Takehara Station.*

Many travelers are drawn to the islands of the Seto Inland Sea for their natural beauty and as a welcome respite from busy urban life. And they are undeniably beautiful, numerous, and varied, offering endless opportunities for exploration and relaxation. What may impress you most, however, is the warm welcome that you receive from the people of these islands, as well as their commitment to keeping and preserving historic buildings and keeping local traditions alive.

With your visit to the Okamoto Soy Sauce Brewery and walking tour of Mitarai’s historic district, you gain insight into local history and traditional craftsmanship. On a deeper level, the chance to spend time with local residents like Yasujiro Okamoto and Akira Inoue to hear their stories will help you form a more personal understanding of these special islands and the unique individuals who live there.