Experience the Samurai Tea Ceremony of the Ueda Soko School near Miyajima and the Itsukushima Shrine World Heritage Site

Hiroshima Samurai Tea Ceremony Near the Popular Tourist Destination of Miyajima

Rising from Hiroshima Bay – in the Chugoku region of western Honshu, adjacent to the serene waters of the Seto Inland Sea – sits Miyajima (or “Itsukushima”), one of Japan’s most celebrated scenic destinations. The island harmonizes sea and mountain landscapes with centuries-old spiritual traditions. Revered as sacred ground, it is also home to the iconic vermilion torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine which dramatically plunges into – and rises from – the sea with the rhythm of the tides. Here, Japan’s unique spiritual culture – where Shinto and Buddhism intertwine – along with traditional performing arts, crafts, and tea ceremony, continues to be carefully preserved.

The setting for the experience, Hayase-an, is a replica of the Ueda Soko-ryu Wafudo tea house Keishinsai, located across the bay from Miyajima in Hiroshima Prefecture’s Hatsukaichi City. Here, seasonal tea ceremony experiences convey Japan's traditional culture and the spirit of peace, and lessons initiate into the art of tea ceremony. Tourists from across Japan and beyond visit as a place to experience its cultural charms.

A Ritual Brimming with the Aesthetic Sense and Life-or-Death Spirituality of the Samurai

The Ueda Soko School is named for its founder, Ueda Soko (1563–1650), a Sengoku-period warlord and tea master with deep ties to Hiroshima. An heir to the lineage of legendary tea master Sen no Rikyu, Ueda Soko incorporated the aesthetic sensibilities and spirituality of the samurai into tea practice. As a result, the tea of the Ueda Soko School is marked by austere, tranquil beauty infused with dignified tension and refinement. Its movements are precise and economical, emphasizing moderation and harmony over luxury and deeply reflecting the customs of the samurai.

Unlike many of the tea schools that developed within the culture of the merchant class, the Ueda Soko School was preserved as the official tea tradition of the Hiroshima domain, giving it a rare lineage imbued with genuine samurai culture. Through tea, participants can experience the spirituality and aesthetics of Japan’s samurai firsthand.

Sakazukigoto: Sharing Trust, Respect, and Sake

One of the most striking elements of the Ueda Soko School is the sakazukigoto ritual conducted before the tea ceremony. Unique to samurai tea tradition, sakazukigoto involves exchanging cups of sake before entering the world of tea, aligning the hearts of host and guest. During the Sengoku period, sharing sake signified trust and mutual respect before battle – a custom cherished and preserved by the Ueda Soko School.

Following prescribed order and gestures, participants drink the sake in silence. Within these seemingly simple actions lives the samurai code of honoring others and disciplining oneself. As the atmosphere settles and minds grow calm, the tea ceremony begins.

An Etiquette that Elicits a Legacy of War　

After sakazukigoto, the tea preparation – or temae – begins in silence. The drawing of the ladle recalls the drawing of a bowstring. Postures of bows with fists placed on the floor and thumbs hidden evokes wartime vigilance. The host’s movements are direct, powerful, and soundless, and emerge as if instinctual. This is a custom of etiquette born from the extreme concentration and strict discipline cultivated in times of war.

Guests receive instruction on posture, bowing angle, gaze, timing, and the folding of kaishi tea tissue. Following the prescribed etiquette, accept the tea bowl and perform each gesture with care. For samurai, such discipline was a form of training. Unlike the soft elegance of other schools, this style carries even an acute sense of life-and-death awareness. Its solemn simplicity heightens the atmosphere, naturally straightening the spine.

The tea served is official matcha of the Ueda Soko School, accompanied by sweets. This confection was created after consultation with the school’s iemoto as a tea ceremony gift. It is made from the rare, highly sought-after tea leaves known as “Chitose no Tomo,” specially prepared for this experience.

The Creative Philosophy of Copper Craft, from a Metalworking Artist (Additional optional)

As an option, be joined by Yatake of "Iemori", a master metalsmith to learn about his creative philosophy. Yatake of "Iemori", whose work is part of the same regional craft culture as the Ueda Soko school of tea ceremony and Ueda Soko’s own handmade tea ceremony utensils, creates his works methodically, hammering as if in dialogue with a single copper plate. His appeal lies in the unpredictable colors and textures created by traditional techniques such as sulfur coloring, and shapes that reflect nature. His works embody a philosophy of exploration, unique expressiveness, and acceptance of chance and inevitability.

Each piece is handmade, embodying a value unattainable through mass production. Hearing directly about the thoughts and philosophy behind these works of art offers a new perspective on them as everyday utensils and tools.

A Memorial to Ueda Soko, and the Aesthetic Spirituality of the Samurai

After the tea ceremony, pay a visit to the memorial mound of Ueda Soko – a short ten minute walk from the tearoom – accompanied by an interpreter. After passing the torch of the school to his son Shigemasa, Soko devoted his later years directly to tea and died in 1650 at age 88. Per his will, his ashes were scattered in the Seto Inland Sea he loved, and a mound was made to enshrine a lock of his hair. Today, his spirit is carried on by the 16th-generation iemoto Ueda Sokei, who shares the beauty of this tea ceremony with the world.

Once a fierce general famed for front line valor, Soko went on to serve as a senior retainer to the ruler of Hiroshima. In his later years, he lived a life of deep abiding love for the Seto Inland Sea and Miyajima, and even created the garden Shukkei-en, which has since become a landmark Hiroshima sightseeing destination. The spirit Ueda left behind through his tea ceremony – one of self-discipline and respect for others – continues to inspire. Through devoted appreciation of tea, refined aesthetics, and august hospitality, this is a profound encounter with the way of the samurai.