Shamisen Lesson and Performance at a Buddhist Temple in Kyoto

A Setting Befitting the Buddha

Exclusive to Wabunka, this experience offers guests the opportunity to explore the shamisen, one of Japan’s most popular traditional instruments, at a Buddhist temple in Kyoto. Sessions on the first and third Thursdays of the month are held at Kongo-ji Temple in Higashiyama, while those on the second and fourth Wednesdays of the month are held at Choraku-ji Temple in Gion.

Kongo-ji Temple has a history of over 400 years, with two main halls built during the Edo period (1603–1868) among the most significant buildings in Kyoto.

Kongo-ji Temple is part of the Jodo Sect of Japanese Buddhism

Choraku-ji Temple is over 1,000 years old. It is mentioned in “The Tale of the Heike,” “The Konjaku Monogatari,” and a number of other famous works of Japanese literature. Its garden is said to have served as a prototype for Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto’s famous Silver Pavilion. The grounds are filled with lush natural scenes and the sound of birdsong.

Choraku-ji Temple, located deep in the Gion district and embraced by the natural surroundings of the Higashiyama mountains

The experience at Kongo-ji Temple begins with a visit to the temple’s main altar, dedicated to Amitabha, or Amida Nyorai in Japanese. There, the temple’s abbot will give a short talk about the history of the institution. The temple’s Jodo Sect is one of the most popular in Japan, and believes that saying the name of the buddha (“Namu Amida Butsu”) will allow a person to be led to the Pure Land of Ultimate Bliss.

The abbot offers a brief introduction to Buddhism

After the introduction, guests are invited to pray to Amitabha in the traditional fashion and practice tapping a wooden ‘fish gong’ used to accompany prayers.

‘Fish gongs’ are often used to accompany prayers and readings

Japanese Sensibilities with an Up-and-Coming Musician

Hakumai Yamada is a shamisen player and singer, and the teacher on this experience. He performs traditional pieces, from epics to children’s songs, as well as original compositions. Hakumai aims to express traditional Japanese sensibilities, which he believes to remain fundamentally the same as those of hundreds of years ago. Based in Kyoto, he is the inventor of the shamisen-uta genre, where a single musician plays and sings at the same time.

Mr. Yamada performs at both religious and secular events

According to Hakumai, the shamisen is notably imperfect compared to most western instruments. Tones can appear vague, muddy, or sharp, and chords can hold dissonance within. Nevertheless, the wistful sound of the shamisen resonates in the heart of many Japanese people today, and speaks to the country’s ancient past. Some of Hakumai’s songs are sung in words too old for most people to understand, though the emotions they express are always clear.

Shamisen and bachi plectrums

Hakumai believes that the shamisen expresses the Japanese idea of wabi-sabi, the beauty of imperfection. Wabi, roughly “loneliness” is present in the sound of the shamisen, while sabi, which can mean “rust,” “patina,” and “simplicity” in the ancient Yamato language lyrics. Both words have deep and complex meanings, so the experience of playing the shamisen can provide a gateway to understanding them more completely.

Learning the Basics

Guests will learn to play a hosozao, the thinnest type of shamisen, with a plectrum. First, guests are taught how to sit in the kneeling seiza position and hold the shamisen and plectrum. Guests may also use a chair if they prefer.

Checking posture and positioning

After assuming the correct position, it’s time to make music. With Hakumai’s instruction, guests will get a feel for sounding and shifting between strings, and learn to ‘push’ rather than pluck to create the best tone. Guests are guided at their own pace, so even musical novices will be able to participate with ease.

An Ancient Song

“Iroha Uta” is an ancient Japanese song passed down through oral tradition. Guests will learn its simple melody, then accompany Hakumai as he adds a main melody and lyrics. The shamisen is tuned to resonate at 528 Hz, which is said to have a relaxing and healing effect on the human body.

“Iroha Uta” encapsulates Japanese aesthetic sensibilities

“Iroha Uta” is part of the Buddhist Nirvana Sutra, and furthermore expresses the idea of wabi-sabi. This makes it another excellent way to understand the qualities and flavor of ancient Japanese.

Traditional sheet music for “Iroha Uta”

Purifying Performance

Now familiar with the shamisen, guests will move on to the final performance, dedicated to the buddha of the temple. Dedicated performances are said to be the essence of Japanese performing arts. Although playing in front of the altar can appear intimidating, Hakumai aims to make such performances part of everyday life as a performer, and believes that they help foster a sense of gratitude and sincerity. Such performances are furthermore purifying experiences for the body and soul.

The dedication performance can be filmed

In addition to “Iroha Uta”, guests will learn folk and children’s songs which call to mind the current season. With each, guests will learn a simple accompaniment to Hakumai’s lead part, allowing the whole group to create beautiful music with only a little practice.

Buddhist deities act as the audience

A Live Performance on Sacred Ground

The experience concludes with a performance from Hakumai. At Kongo-ji Temple, the performance is of “Matsu no Midori” (“The Green of the Pine Tree”), which describes a magnificent pine in the grounds of the temple. In it, Hakuamai uses the sounds of the shamisen to call to mind the wind flowing through pine needles and the rhythm of a walking courtesan.

The rich expressiveness of the lyrics brings each scene to life

The performance takes place in the garden itself, allowing the sounds of the music to interact with their subject.

At Choraku-ji, the performance is “Four Seasons of Kyoto”, the lyrics of which reference the temple.

The small but beautiful garden at Kongo-ji Temple

In just an hour, guests will experience the shamisen as a cultural artifact and as a musical instrument, while at the same time exploring the depth of Japanese sensibilities. Hakumai believes that the melancholy sounds of the shamisen and the wabi-sabi expressed in ancient lyrics helps us to “listen to the scenery and focus on the sound.”