Create Original Jeans with a Master Craftsman in Kojima, the Birthplace of Japanese Denim

Kojima, Birthplace of Made-in-Japan Jeans

Kojima, located at the southernmost tip of Okayama Prefecture in Kurashiki City, is widely known as a textile town. The textile industry has flourished here for generations – particularly using cotton. At its peak, it is said that nearly 90% of all school uniforms produced in Japan were made in Kojima. However, after World War II, the materials used for school uniforms rapidly shifted to synthetic fibers.

At this historical turning point, the Kojima cotton textile industry pivoted to denim as its path forward. At the time, vintage American jeans had become popular among Japan’s young people. The artisans of Kojima leveraged their expertise in handling heavy cotton fabrics and their regionally networked division-of-labor system to undertake their new foray into jeans production. From the 1960s onward, a number of denim brands emerged in Kojima, and the area quickly became Japan’s leading domestic jeans production center. Today, its advanced techniques and dedication to materials have made its products highly regarded worldwide, and Kojima denim continues to be a touchstone for renowned global brands.

Artisanal Dedication Woven into Each Pair of Whoval Jeans

In Kojima, processes such as weaving, fabric finishing, sewing, distressing, washing, final finishing, and sales are all handled through specialized regional divisions of labor. Among these, Whoval is a firm that focuses primarily on skilled denim processing by hand. Its strength lies in its high level of reproducibility based on vintage clothing, as well as the “expressiveness” of the jeans, including natural wear creases and nuanced color variations that can only be achieved by hand. Whoval’s jeans embody the taste and passion of their craftspeople.

Whoval is also highly committed to sustainability initiatives. One such example is the Nanomist processing technology, which achieves deep, rich fading using misted water and chemical agents for significantly reduced resource consumption. The challenge of environmental considerations, fascinatingly, ultimately expands rather than limits the range of possible expressions in denim.

Experiencing Japanese Craftsmanship and the Origins of Made-in-Japan Jeans

This experience kicks off at Whoval’s sewing facility, where artisans begin with a talk on the historical background of how the Kojima region became one of Japan’s foremost denim-producing regions. After tracing this history, guests will learn all about the full process of jeans production. Understanding Kojima’s long role as a denim base through regionally specialized division of labor sheds light on the rich craft of jeans-making as a Japanese local industry.

After the insights of the talk, participants can try on premade straight-cut jeans by Whoval. The simple silhouette of these jeans provides a baseline to better understand how later processing will transform them, illustrating how the final product takes shape. Here, participants will consult with your professional artisan and try on five sizes of jeans to further develop a baseline for understanding the silhouette.

Learning Artisanal Sensibilities to Design an Original Pair of Jeans　

After completing the fitting, the experience moves from the sewing floor to processing. Here, the planning for a truly original pair of jeans begins. Check multiple sample denim pieces in varying colors and finishes to refine your own image. Through discussion with the artisan, decide in detail on elements such as fade and the placement and intensity of distressing, and enjoy detailed explanations on how each choice will affect the finished product.

Once sewn, jeans are stiffened with starch – a state referred to as “raw denim.” From here, they are softened by the washing process, which also shrinks the fabric. Damage is added after this step, making it essential for everyone involved to be on the same page about the intended final result. Processing is not an art that welcomes randomness, but a science based on calculating foresight. In this step, participants will repeatedly exchange ideas with the artisan to not only decide on a design but also to develop a more refined understanding of sensibility and technique.

Adding Expression to Jeans Through a Hands-On Crafting Experience

With plans finalized, participants move to a hands-on experience in the factory’s washing area. Create wear creases on the jeans by inserting molds into raw denim, and rubbing the fabric using specialized brushes. As a professional explains: “Processing is the act of artificially creating creases that would normally form only through repeated wear. You can choose to let them develop naturally over time, or add them from the start through significant distressing.” Enjoy this professional guidance as you create your own unique pair of jeans.

With the wear creases added, hand off your jeans to the professionals for finishing. This is a great opportunity to observe the factory interior and its operations, including bleaching and washing. See how jeans are softened by washing with stones and chemicals to create distressing. Depending on timing, you might also get a look at the Nanomist process. Once completed, your one-of-a-kind jeans are finished with a Wabunka-exclusive original design patch bearing the date and your initials, to be shipped to you by mail – usually arriving about a month after the experience.

Exploring Kojima Jeans Street with a Denim Artisan as Your Guide

At the end of the experience, take a walk along Kojima Jeans Street together with your denim artisan. Kojima Jeans Street is a symbolic thoroughfare designed to embody the jeans-production industry and history of Kojima in a single street. It’s also home to Whoval’s own brand shop as well as numerous denim shops from brands both domestic and international, as well as shops featuring related products and restaurants. Each business has its own distinct personality and history, making this a rich ground for leisurely exploration.

With an artisan as your guide and fresh insights into the industry in mind, you can vividly appreciate the philosophy and techniques behind each pair of jeans you encounter during your exploration. This is also a great opportunity to do some shopping. Comparing the characteristics of each shop and brand and its products with your newfound insights is a great way to find jeans perfectly suited to your taste. Between the hands-on production experience and local walking tour, this is a comprehensive immersion in Kojima’s denim culture.

Discovering Japanese Craftsmanship through Jeans

Creating original jeans in Kojima is more than a mere craft experience. It is a glimpse into the history of jeans, the processes behind them, and the philosophy of the artisans: an encounter with Japanese craftsmanship itself. When your finished work arrives approximately a month after the experience, what arrives is more than a pair of jeans. It’s also a bundle of memories: your unique design choices and personal handiwork. Each time you wear them, you’re apt to recall the Kojima neighborhood and the artisans here who helped you bring them to life.

In a sense, the entire Kojima area is a workshop unto itself. This experience, which fuses hands-on craftsmanship and local exploration, is sure to add a special dimension and unique memories to any trip across Japan. Experience Kojima, where some of the world’s highest-quality jeans are produced, like nowhere else – by crafting your very own piece of local history and culture.