Historic Cormorant Fishing with Geisha Entertainment and Dinner on a Private Boat

A Treasured Tradition and Form of Hospitality Born of the Bond Between Fisherman and Cormorant

Less than two hours to the east of Osaka lies Gifu, a prefecture rich with verdant mountains, soothing hot springs, and vibrant traditional culture. A key part of its heritage is cormorant fishing, continuously passed down through select families for over 1,300 years on the Nagara River. Almost every night from May to mid-October, expert fishermen set out on boats with flaming lanterns, from which the cormorants leap into the water to snatch sweetfish that are then returned into bamboo baskets.

Clean and fresh, the Nagara River is classified as one of Japan’s three clear free-flowing rivers

While it began as a practical fishing technique, the sheer skill required to guide the cormorants led to it being shown as a form of hospitality. The first to do this was none other than the warlord Oda Nobunaga, the first “Great Unifier” of Japan. In more recent times, it was even demonstrated for figures like Edward VIII and Charlie Chaplin, with the latter declaring that the fishermen were artists.

Recognized as one of Japan’s Intangible Folk Cultural Properties, cormorant fishing is now practiced on the Nagara River for about 100,000 visitors every year by its six remaining cormorant fishing masters (appointed as official fishermen of the Emperor), some of whom are still going strong in their seventies. Each keeps around 30 cormorants carefully nurtured from chick to adult, contributing to lifespans that are three times longer than their wild counterparts. They are not pets, but instead lifelong partners that become one with their fisherman as they work to achieve their goal.

Witness their incredible teamwork before your very eyes and dive into their fascinating culture through this Wabunka experience, which is enhanced even further by the hospitality of Gifu’s geisha.

Discover the Geisha of Gifu, Including One of Only Male Geisha in Japan

In addition to seeing cormorant fishing, one of Gifu’s greatest forms of hospitality is entertainment provided by local geiko (geisha) and maiko (apprentice geisha) - all trained in the arts of traditional dance, singing, and music - against the backdrop of the beautiful Nagara River. In fact, Gifu is the only area of Japan whose geisha entertain guests upon boats used to observe the fishing.

Kikuji (right) with an elaborately costumed maiko (left), or apprentice geisha

During your trip, you will be accompanied by not only a maiko (an apprentice geisha) and a jikata (a geiko performing music), but also one of Japan’s seven hokan, or male geisha. Under the name Kikuji Housen, he endeavors to preserve their culture by training both hokan and maiko in addition to personally entertaining guests with his performances and sharp wit.

Exquisite Entertainment with a Dinner Highlighting Sweetfish, Seasonal Ingredients, and Local Sake

Your journey begins on the riverbank, where you will be welcomed onto one of only three luxury boats by Kikuji, the maiko, and the jikata. When it’s time to set off, enjoy their traditional flute and taiko drum performance, the first of many local traditions you will experience onboard.

Anticipation abounds as the boat departs for the upper reaches

As the boat steadily makes its way up the river, indulge in a lavish dinner of sweetfish and seasonal ingredients arranged in a bento, as well as sake aged for a decade by local brewery Daruma Masamune (non-alcoholic options also available). This is also the perfect time for a chat with Kikuji and the maiko - a rare opportunity to directly learn about Gifu’s geisha community and its history of over 500 years, particularly hokan, a culture practiced in Western Japan only by Kikuji and his protégé.

A treasure box of fresh seasonal ingredients and tasty sweetfish (for reference only)

There is also much to be absorbed simply by taking in the sights, sounds, and other sensations as the evening goes on. As the maiko performs the first dance, admire the elegant movements that evoke a story, complemented by her elaborate seasonal kimono with an obi belt tied expertly to keep it off the ground, a Gifu maiko speciality. Meanwhile, Kikuji’s voice and the notes of the shamisen (a traditional three-stringed instrument) echo through the fresh river air, at times wistful, at other times bold and bright.

The lush mountains and rippling river serve as a backdrop for the maiko’s mesmerizing dance

The second dance stars Kikuji himself, demonstrating decades of experience and his dedication to his art. You may even see him execute the famous shachihoko pose, where both legs are raised in the air to imitate the body of a carp, a remarkable feat of upper body strength. Then, play a traditional party game that is easily enjoyed even without prior experience or Japanese skills. Before you know it, it will be time to immerse yourself in the world of cormorant fishing. 

Kikuji will demonstrate decades of experience as a professional hokan

Learn From a Master About the Tools of the Trade 

As the sky continues to darken, a fishing master will bring his boat up for a special talk, including a live demonstration of how the cormorants swallow and return their sweetfish. 

You’ll also be able to observe his traditional garb, including a straw skirt that shields him from the cold, and various tools (recognized as Important Tangible Folk Cultural Properties), like the ropes that act as harnesses for the eight to twelve cormorants he will work with that night. The ropes are adjusted according to the condition of each cormorant, which their fisherman personally checks every day to assess their health and the size of the sweetfish they will be able to catch.

A fishing master in traditional garb, including a straw skirt for warmth, and his trusted cormorants

Stunning Fishing Skills and Teamwork Demonstrated Before Your Very Eyes

After fireworks soar into the air, marking the beginning of the night’s fishing, see the action up close with karikudari: sailing down the river alongside the fishermen’s boats. As the heat of the blazing lanterns used to attract the sweetfish warms your face, the cormorants enthusiastically dive in and out of the water before your very eyes. Don’t forget to observe the guidance of the fishermen, who constantly control the ropes and gauge each cormorant’s movements while collecting catches, as well as the support of the assistants and rowers - all vital for a successful outing.

The flaming lanterns not only light the way for fisherman and cormorant, but also attract sweetfish

Then, the six fishermen will return to the upper reaches and line up side-by-side, sailing back down to catch the remaining sweetfish. Known as sogarami, this is the evening’s grand finale, an impressive sight that highlights the skill, teamwork, and commitment of each master fisher and his cormorants.

The unforgettable sight of all six boats side-by-side, representing centuries of history

It may be difficult to tear yourself away, but one more local tradition is waiting for you: the folk song “Obaba,” which marks the end of gatherings like this. There’s no need to worry about the exact lyrics or movements; simply soak up the last moments of this extraordinary night.

A Unique Way of Experiencing Cormorant Fishing Only Possible in Gifu

This Wabunka experience not only brings you into a world of culture and tradition cherished for over 1,300 years, but also enhances it with unique entertainment from Gifu’s geisha. 

See and support the inheritors of Gifu’s geisha culture, a 500-year legacy

The perfect way to begin and conclude your time watching the cormorant fishing, such performances and hospitality on an observation boat can only be experienced here on the Nagara River. Step onboard for a fascinating night that will always shine bright amongst your memories of Japan.

A night on the Nagara River is an experience like no other