Sake Tasting and Food Pairing at Tokyo’s Oldest Sake Shop

Edo Period Elegance Revived in Modern Tokyo

Kanda is one of Tokyo’s oldest districts, and the original downtown of the city when it was known as Edo. Kanda Square opened in 2020 as a glittering business district designed with brocade motifs and greenery — it’s here that Toshimaya’s flagship Honten store has taken up residence, over 400 years since it was founded.

Toshimaya’s entrance is both inviting and elegant

Encounter Edo’s Sake Culture

Toshimaya’s shop interior is decorated in bright white — markedly different from the dark, classic standing bars where sake is often drunk. Three noted sake varieties greet guests on the front wall: Kinshu, which is used in religious rituals at Meiji Jingu and Kanda Myojin shrines, Juemon, named after Toshimaya’s founder, and Edo Sake Oji, which has won numerous awards around the world.

On the other side of the display is a copy of the ‘Edo Meisho Zue’, a centuries-old illustrated guide to the major sights of the old capital, which depicts Toshimaya as it was in 1836. Viewing it, guests can get a sense of the long history suffused into the modern decor and sensibilities.

A selection of sake produced by Toshimaya

Discovering the Charm of Sake

Choose three types of sake from Toshimaya’s rich selection, all produced at the company’s brewery in Higashimurayama, Tokyo. Newcomers to sake can receive guidance based on their existing preferences, and half measures are available for light drinkers.

As each sake is poured, staff will explain its context, production, and flavor notes. Savor the sound of the cup filling and the delicate aroma as it rises.

This clean and simple sake cup design expresses Toshimaya’s philosophy

Toshimaya’s sake is known for its clarity and depth of flavor. This is partly down to the water used in the brewing process, which flows through Mount Fuji and is drawn from a source 150 meters underground. Despite taking such pains in the brewing process, Toshimaya’s current president, Toshiyuki Yoshimura, says that “sake is best enjoyed with a free spirit.”

Toshiyuki Yoshimura, the 16th-generation head, welcomes guest in a traditional happi coat

Sake enjoys a rich culture and history in its own right, but like many drinks is best appreciated with food. An understanding of Japan’s famous food culture, and especially that of old Edo, is bound to increase appreciation for both food and drink. Starting with a single sip of delicious sake, guests will find themselves immersed in a rich culinary culture stretching back centuries.

Toshimaya as depicted in the ‘Edo Meisho Zue’ map

Eating ‘Edo Tokyo Modern’

Enjoy a special pairing menu created by Toshimaya head chef Satomi Otomo as part of the experience.

The signature dish is tofu dengaku, a form of fried tofu that’s said to have been Toshimaya’s specialty since the Edo period. Having emerged at a time when sugar was not readily available, the traditional recipe is considered a little too salty for modern tastes, so this incarnation is slightly sweetened by traditionally-brewed mirin. Enjoy a plain tofu dengaku, a seasonal variation, and a dessert version with cream cheese and red bean paste to experience some of the Edo period’s most famous flavors.

March’s seasonal tofu dengaku highlights sea bream

Other menu items include ‘Toshimaya Butter’, which is made with sake lees and dried fruit, and ‘Sweet Natto Mascarpone’, made with fermented soy beans. Naturally, each is designed to be enjoyed alongside sake, and guests will find them perfectly matched to the varieties on offer.

Each sip brings new and exciting flavor combinations

The ‘Edo Tokyo Modern’ menu changes daily, ensuring that every meal showcases the best of the season. Guests can look forward to a truly enlightening encounter with fine food and sake, and exclusive to this tour will receive a special sake cup or traditional square wooden masu cup as a souvenir.

The tofu is made at Echigo-ya, a century-old local restaurant

Sake: A Growing Phenomenon

Toshimaya believes in a balance between the immutable and the ever-changing. Until very recently, sake was almost exclusively produced and enjoyed in Japan, but the drink is gaining ever more popularity around the world. With its international outlook and historical roots, Toshimaya aims to be the perfect place for newcomers and sake lovers alike to deepen their enjoyment of this remarkable drink.

Pairing sake with food allows a deeper appreciation for both

“Sake’s popularity comes and goes, but currently more and more people from all countries and generations are developing a taste for it,” says Mr. Yoshimura. “I hope that this tasting experience will be a first step into the world of sake for many more.”