Private Sushi Making Experience with a Master Sushi Chef Trained at an Eminent Sushi Restaurant

The Pursuit of Edomae Orthodoxy and New Innovation Alike, in Tokyo’s Proving Grounds of Sushi

Kenichiro Hirai opened Sushi Hazan in 2022 in the Nishi-Azabu neighborhood of Tokyo, throwing up his flag in the midst of a veritable battleground of top tier sushi restaurants jostling shoulder-to-shoulder to stand out. The restaurant’s distinguished interior, with only eight seats and a single board counter, exemplifies the poise necessary of such an endeavor. Chef Hirai is no stranger to pressure: before going solo, he cut his teeth at Nakameguro’s Udatsu Sushi, a restaurant whose exacting quality earned it a star from The Michelin Guide Tokyo 2023. But when it comes to the other side of the counter, Hirai seeks to create a cozy and easygoing atmosphere for diners to, in his own words, “unwind and enjoy” the finest sushi experience possible.

While Chef Hirai’s sushi itself is rigorously traditional Edomae style, the dining room exudes a cozy casual vibe

Sushi Hazan serves traditionalist Edomae sushi, a style whose essence lies in the application of various techniques to draw out the essential flavor of the finest quality fish. Cold-aged maguro tuna; hirame flounder dried and salted before resting in a kelp wrap; vinegared konoshiro shad – Edomae sushi is all about using masterful handling and prep as a way to enhance and spotlight the inherent deliciousness of each fish.

Sit down to a traditional countertop meal of exquisite Edomae sushi

All nigiri sushi has two parts. The “shari” is the pressed nugget of vinegared and salted rice which serves as the vital balancing base. The slice of fish or other main ingredient in the starring role is the “neta” – a word that in Japanese literally means “subject,” “substance,” or even “story”.

The Essential Edomae Sushi Art of Nigiri, at a Master’s Workstation

Nigiri – which might be literally translated as “rolling,” “squeezing,” or “wadding” – is a key technique central to the craft of Edomae sushi, and you can learn it directly from Chef Hirai himself. This Wabunka exclusive plan allows you to reserve the entire restaurant for your exclusive use, making it perfect for family and other group visits. It also includes the uncommon opportunity to step behind the counter yourself and experience a perspective on sushi that very few diners ever can. 

A demonstration of “kotegaeshi,” one of several nigiri techniques

“Squeezing” might sound straightforward, but there is a fine technique to proper nigiri. First, dampen your hands with vinegar before using your right hand to scoop up a small handful of sushi rice, forming your “shari.” Next, use the index finger of your right hand to spread a dab of wasabi onto your “neta.” Finally, pack them together into a finished piece of sushi. Nothing to it, right? Unfortunately, words can be deceiving, as you will immediately and unmistakably taste if you try the sushi you roll yourself alongside Chef Hirai’s, made from exactly the same ingredients though it may be.

The ideal portion of rice for each shari, depending on the neta, is usually 8-10 grams

Same Neta, Same Shari, but Different Nigiri Technique for a Decidedly Different Flavor and Mouthfeel

This nigiri experience includes dining on up to 10 pieces of sushi. Choose to make all the sushi yourself or go for a comparative tasting, pitting for example some of your own pieces against other pieces made by the chef. The ratio is up to you, but this comparison is probably the best way to appreciate the role of nigiri technique in producing almost unbelievably different results with the same ingredients.

Glazing with “nikiri” (not to be confused with “nigiri”) – a sweet-salty reduction of soy sauce, mirin sweet rice wine, and cooking sake – is a step unique to Edomae sushi

What tends to stand out the most in comparing the finished products is the way the neta and shari come together. Sushi made by chef Hirai incorporates the perfect amount of air for a fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. With each bite, the rice and fish dance a delicious duet, melding into one as you chew and swallow. This is the joy of Edomae sushi and the essence of the nigiri technique that you will experience here.
* Drinks are available. Additional charges apply.

Taste test your own sushi against Chef Hirai’s

The Surprising Challenge of Wasabi Grating

“Even absolute beginners can manage more or less passable nigiri technique,” says Hirai. “Wasabi grating, on the other hand, is deceptively tricky to get the hang of. You’d be surprised how many people just give up in the middle.” Fortunately, this plan offers the opportunity to practice this elusive skill under the guidance of a master if you wish to try it yourself.

Grating authentic wasabi sourced from Shizuoka prefecture’s Izu peninsula on a sharkskin grater

Holding the wasabi root in your dominant hand and the sharkskin grater in the other, scrape with a gentle finesse. It might seem simple enough, but most find it surprisingly tricky in practice, and many end up resorting to brute force.

Basic grating technique: grater held in a circular grip with the non-dominant hand, and wasabi in the dominant hand

Wasabi grated too forcefully loses its subtle depths of flavor and retains only spiciness, making for a poor pairing to the deep dimensions of sushi. Chef Hirai’s masterfully grated wasabi, on the other hand, has a less overwhelming kick with more fragrance and depth, providing the perfect pairing to top tier sushi. The trick all lies in how the grater is held and careful control over pressure when grating – and it can be shocking just how such a seemingly small thing can produce such dramatically different results.

A Rare, Up-Close Look at the Craft of Sushi

The “tsukeba” is the kitchen workstation of the sushi restaurant, and traditionally it is a sanctuary and sanctum to be trod only by the chefs themselves. But Hirai seeks to demystify it by welcoming participants into this holy place: “I want people to feel like they can dive right into the world of sushi.” Hands-on instruction in the craft of sushi from a master chef, standing behind the counter yourself in the holiest of holies, is an unparalleled experience you are unlikely to find anywhere else.

A precious opportunity to experience Edomae sushi from an entirely different perspective

Stop in to Sushi Hazan for the delights of eating and the pleasures of learning in an unforgettable experience that will leave you with a deepened appreciation for the craft of sushi and the fine techniques behind it.