Stroll through History with a Kyoto Restaurateur in the Old Entertainment District of Shimabara – Lunch Included

Shimabara Otobun Restaurant, a Neighborhood Fixture of this Historic Entertainment District

The Shimabara district of Kyoto is the oldest of the country’s traditional entertainment districts, and was also the stomping ground of many important figures in the turbulent 19th Century revolutionary political upheavals leading to the end of the Tokugawa shogunate and the Meiji Restoration, such as Saigo Takamori, Katsura Kogoro, and the Shinsengumi (an elite sword unit that fought on behalf of the shogunate). Today, the neighborhood’s Omon Gate and rows of historic geisha teahouses still carry the atmosphere of those times. Just below the gate sits the restaurant Otobun, whose hundredth anniversary is rapidly approaching. This famed culinary institution even caters to Wachigaiya, the last remaining teahouse in Japan where visitors can encounter tayu – top-ranked geisha.

The shop curtain of Shimabara Otobun hangs a stone’s throw from the Omon gate

Otobun’s name is an allusion to its founder Bunjiro, and the restaurant Otowa in Shijo Shinkyogoku at which he mastered his craft before striking out on his own. In those days before the growth of large chains and conveyor belt service, artisanal sushi was the norm. Bunjiro’s new shop thrived, helped along by its strategic location on a street along which Shimabara visitors passed by on their way home from carousing in the district.

Elegant Private Dining Rooms (Specific Availability Varies)

Let Kimura regale you with stories of Shimabara’s history and his culinary institution’s place in it as you savor a luxurious lunch of Kyoto fare in the tranquil privacy of your own dining room.

Discover Historic Shimabara, One of Japan’s “Big Three” Traditional Entertainment Districts

This experience starts with a talk on the history of Shimabara by Kimura, the 4th generation proprietor of Otobun. That history begins with the first constructions of the district, carried out under the aegis of famed samurai lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The district formerly stood in an area near Nijo Castle, but was closed down and relocated several times before ending up in its current location – a chaotic start that is believed to have given the district its name, after a region in Nagasaki Prefecture which at the time was a byword for strife and upheaval. Entertaining anecdotes bring this rich history to life.

Otobun’s Kimura regales visitors with his personal knowledge of the district’s history

The tayu depicted on the shop's noren curtains and chopstick bags are modeled after Hanaogi Tayu of the Wachigiya teahouse, and its second floor features a paper cut also depicting her, given to the restaurant by the artist. The tayu are a special top ranking class of geisha deeply associated with the Shimabara district. Known for their demanding training and education, and the extensive skills and knowledge required of them, tayu is a highly exclusive title that few in Japan are qualified to use. Get to know the history and culture of Shimabara through these artistic works.

Paper cut of Hanaogi Tayu, icon of Otobun

Relish a Lunch of Lavish Kyoto Fare Made from Seasonal Delights

After the talk on Shimabara, it’s time for lunch. Enjoy a bento boxed lunch along with a bowl of simmered fare, mukozuke sashimi, tea confections, and usucha light tea. The menu varies to suit the season, ensuring a meal that’s always bursting with fresh delights, elegance, and subtle flavors. The small servings of each of the many dishes included add up to feast that fills the stomach but doesn’t leave you stuffed.

A beautiful chakai tea party style assortment (table and chair seating available)

The lunch served is chakai tenshin, a tea party meal style that features a diverse assortment of small serving dishes. Otobun strives for a delicate palate that comforts the moment it touches your taste buds. The elegantly understated but distinct flavor of their signature dashimaki rolled egg is a pitch perfect representation of Kyoto’s culinary traditions. Enjoy it all with tea party tableware, along with a cup of matcha and tea party confectionery in this soothing space.

Matcha and seasonal wagashi confection (specific offerings vary)

Stroll through Shimabara, Japan's Oldest Traditional Entertainment District, with Kimura

After lunch, allow Kimura, Shimabara native, to show you around the neighborhood in a walking tour. Enjoy a look at the vestiges of days past as you visit three spots: The Shimabara Omon gate marking the entrance to the district, the Wachigaiya teahouse that is home to the last remaining tayu in Japan, and the luxurious banquet hall and traditional ageya entertainment house Sumiya.

Built in 1867, the current Shimabara Omon gate is the third iteration

Shimabara is also known for is connection to revolutionary and counter revolutionary figures of the Meiji Restoration period such as Takamori Saigo and the Shinsengumi, and the Wachigaiya teahouse still displays historic works of art created by these historical luminaries’ own hands. The building itself is also registered among Kyoto City’s tangible cultural properties, and stands as a charming streetside exemplar of Kyoto atmosphere (Entry not available).

Wachigaiya is known by its trademark symbol of two overlapping rings

History to Learn, to Touch, and to Savor

A short distance away from Wachigaiya is Sumiya, a banquet hall and traditional entertainment house known for the secret meetings once held in it by late 19th Century samurai revolutionary Kusaka Genzui, as well as for its association with the counter-revolutionary Shinsengumi sword units. Yosa Buson, a famous Japanese haiku poet and painter of the mid Edo period, also visited during a time when the establishment functioned as a kind of cultural salon, where social interactions were conducted through poetry. Today functioning as the Sumiya Hospitality Museum, the building is open to the public for tours.

Sumiya is designated a national important cultural property, showcasing historical ageya banquet hall architecture

In this experience, participants can learn all about Shimabara through a talk as well as a tour of its streets, gaining a new understanding and appreciation for the depths of the area’s history and culture. Come and feel the history of Kyoto, the ancient capital and cultural center of Japan.