[Short Stay] Explore Art, Rice Terraces, and a Traditional Soy Sauce Brewery on Shodoshima in the Seto Inland Sea

The Many Treasures of Shodoshima, a Special Island in the Seto Inland Sea

Between three of the four main islands of Japan — Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu – is a body of water known as the Seto Inland Sea, with clear azure waters and archipelagos of small islands that have led some to call it the Aegean Sea of the East. Western geologists who visited Japan in the 19th century are said to have praised it as the most beautiful sea in the world. There are over 700 islands scattered throughout the Seto Inland Sea, with Shodoshima the second largest and boasting fine resorts as well as a rich cultural heritage.

Your journey to Shodoshima begins on the sea itself, catching one of the regular ferries or high-speed ferries that travel to the island from ports in Hyogo, Okayama, and Kagawa. Onboard, revel in the gentle sea breeze as you gaze out on the unique scenery of the Seto Inland Sea. As you approach Shodoshima, take note of its stunning mountainous landscape, which features some of the most beautiful valleys in Japan, particularly Kankakei at the island’s center. From the moment you set foot on the island, it is all waiting there for you.

Setouchi Triennale Festival’s Art Installations Blend Seamlessly into the Island’s Natural Landscape

Held on Shodoshima every three years since it was first launched in 2010, the Setouchi Triennale has rapidly grown into one of the main events on Japan’s art festival calendar. Tonosho Port, where many travelers first land on the island, is home to a diverse collection of art from the festival, including outdoor art installations such as a large gilded olive wreath and metal sculptures that mimic undulating waves. These installations have been placed along the promenade of the port, blending seamlessly into the natural landscape and providing an intriguing introduction to the island.

One particularly striking work by world-renowned Japanese fashion designer Junko Koshino is on display inside the port terminal, which depicts the infinite possibilities of a female figure, clad in a dress worn at a fashion show in 1990. Imbued with a startling sense of dynamism and life, this acrylic resin sculpture had its constituent parts produced by a 3D printer.

Located in the mountainous center of Shodoshima, the rice terraces of the Nakayama Senmaida are composed of nearly 800 rice fields of various shapes and sizes. With a landscape that changes with the seasons from the sowing of the seeds in spring to the autumn harvest, the terraces resemble a giant work of art sculpted by countless hands into the mountain slopes.

Discover the Living Tradition of Traditional Soy Sauce Brewing on Shodoshima

Soy sauce production is one of Shodoshima’s traditional industries, handed down through the generations for over 400 years. Yamaroku Soy Sauce is one brewery on the island that has chosen to continue to employ traditional wooden barrels, an extremely rare process these days that now accounts for just 1% of soya sauce brewed in Japan. You will visit the 100-year-old Moromi-gura warehouse for a tour through this rare traditional process. Inside the warehouse you will find 90 cedar barrels, each taller than a human being, some in use since the founding of the brewery.

The Moromi-gura warehouse is a one-storey wooden building with clay walls and a packed dirt floor. “Yeast and lactic acid bacteria are essential in soy sauce production,” explains facility guide Yukako Sarada. “These microorganisms inhabit not only the wooden barrels themselves, but live in the wooden beams, the clay of the walls, and soil beneath us.” In many ways Moromi-gura is a living, breathing reservoir not of soy sauce, which comes and goes, but of the microorganisms that give continual life to its production.

Because soy sauce relies on live microorganisms, it must be monitored 365 days a year. This begins with the manual processing and mixing of the mash (moromi) so that it can rapidly ferment through spring and summer. From there, one of the processes used at the brewery is to age unpasteurized soy sauce known as kijoyu for 1-2 years before returning it to the barrel to brew for another 2-3 years. As you tour the warehouse, you may start to sense the time and dedication required to produce the finest soy sauce in Japan.

Relax at the Three-Room Seaside Lodge SEASiON

Following your exploration of the island’s fascinating synthesis of nature and art, a relaxing stay at the quiet seaside retreat SEASiON awaits. This three-room lodge was extensively renovated from a former somen noodle factory by the internationally-acclaimed architect Ken Tsukajima, whose work can be found in Tokyo and Osaka, as well as Mexico, Kenya, and the UK. Surrounded by the gentle sounds and sights of the Seto Inland Sea, SEASiON is the perfect place to unwind.

SEASiON’s structure retains a sense of its past as a factory, incorporating original wood and steel, while the interior itself is a work of art. Various artworks are exhibited throughout SEASiON made from local materials to emphasize the idea of sustainability through the unique symbiosis of nature and contemporary art on Shodoshima.

The second floor of the building hosts an art installation made by the Mexican artist YupicA using actual rice grains harvested from the Nakayama Senmaida rice terraces. Using resin, the artist solidified and connected these rice grains to form a flat screen onto which images of Shodoshima could be projected. As you gaze at these images, take time to reflect on the synergy between this work of art and the local materials used to create it.

Enjoy Breakfast as the Sun Rises over the Seto Inland Sea (Additional Option)

SEASiON’s restaurant is committed to sustainability, cleverly utilizing materials that would otherwise be discarded by local food factories along with select local ingredients to produce uniquely delicious meals. With a chef who honed his skills at a restaurant once featured in the Michelin Guide, SEASiON’s cuisine is sophisticated yet simple, celebrating the true bounty of Shodoshima for what it is.

For breakfast (optional, additional fees apply), you can try SEASiON’s German-style pancakes, which fill the air with a wonderful fragrance. Take your time to savor your meal as you look out onto the Seto Inland Sea glowing in the morning light, enveloped by the warm aroma of freshly baked bread.

Where Fine Art Meets One of the World’s Most Beautiful Seas

The tranquility and beauty of the Seto Inland Sea make it just the right pace to slow down for a few days and regain your sense of balance and perspective. On Shodoshima, you will also discover a place where this natural serenity blends with many different thoughtful works of art.

At SEASiON, every detail of the restaurant and guest rooms has been designed to put you on island time. Let your mind and body adjust to this more leisurely pace of life as you explore the island’s natural world, experience its traditional craftsmanship, and savor its delicious sustainably-sourced food.