Kimono Workshop Tour & Uchikake Hands-on Experience with Traditional Artisans in Kyoto

Hand-Painted Uchikake Workshop: Where Every Step, from Dyeing to Finishing, Takes Place Under One Roof

Kimono production involves a division of labor among artisans with specialized skills. The fabrics pass through various hands, each skilled in specific fields, creating a traditional craft that Japan proudly shares with the world. Miyake Kougei, located in Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, is a one-of-a-kind hand-painted uchikake (formal bridal kimono) workshop that uniquely performs all these typically segmented processes within a single workshop. From dyeing the fabric to intricate decoration, a select group of highly skilled artisans employ their expertise to create exquisitely crafted kimonos.

Uchikake adorned with gold and mother-of-pearl inlays exuding an exquisite brilliance

Nobumi Miyake, a seasoned figure in bridal gown production for over 30 years, holds the prestigious title of a traditional craftsman in Kyo-yuzen (hand-painting and gold glaze techniques). With almost 10,000 bridal kimonos created, he has also designed numerous uchikake and stage costumes for renowned actresses and singers.

Typically, uchikake features embroidery, but Miyake Kougei uniquely adorns them with gold and yuzen (resist dyeing). This technique is exceptionally rare, and it is no exaggeration to say that nearly 100% of the uchikake in the market with gold and yuzen patterns are crafted by Miyake Kougei.

Nobumi Miyake, representing Miyake Kougei. Various techniques are employed on pristine white fabric to craft a gorgeous and exquisite uchikake

From White Fabric to Bridal Gown

The workshop performs all the processes involved in making a bridal gown, allowing you to witness multiple stages in this experience.

Simultaneously silk-screening the arabesque pattern onto the fabric and applying the resin

In the initial stages of the process, there is a delicate task of swiftly applying resin onto white fabric on which a silk screen is placed. Known as komon-ire (placing small patterns), this step requires careful attention since mistakes are irreversible. Prior to this, blue tape is pre-applied onto the white fabric, ensuring that the resin does not adhere to these areas. Achieving the right consistency of the resin—neither too dry nor too wet—is crucial for optimal results. The drying rate varies with the seasons, demanding years of experience and intuitive expertise. Careful groundwork precedes the glamorous phases in this meticulous process.

Using a cutter knife to cut the sheet along the yuzen edge mold

Before the decorative phase, various steps are performed on the white fabric. This experience offers a close look at the crucial preparatory process that precedes the ornate use of gold glaze and mother-of-pearl inlays. It provides a deeper understanding of the series of steps involved in making a kimono.

The enbuta (edge cover) plays a crucial role in enhancing the pattern using resin. A blue adhesive sheet is precisely cut with a cutter knife, and when it is affixed onto the fabric and resin applied atop it, the resin adheres only to the cut-out area. Unlike the swift resin coating, this step demands high concentration and meticulous attention to detail.

Observing the Stunning Artistry of Gold Painting and Mother-of-Pearl Inlays

Shioze, a preferred silk fabric for obi (sash), is known for its supple and durable nature. Although challenging to transform into uchikake, the final product boasts enhanced beauty when crafted with shioze. Leveraging advanced processing techniques, Miyake Kougei primarily utilizes this shioze fabric for the majority of its uchikake creations.

Furikin-sago, demanding delicate techniques in adjusting the amount and force applied

Witness the exquisite application of gold and mother-of-pearl inlays onto the challenging shioze fabric. Gold painting traces its origins back to the opulent Momoyama period (1573-1600), contributing to the enhancement of yuzen designs with vibrant colors. This experience offers insight into the workshop's daily processes, including foil application, raden (mother-of-pearl inlay) application, and furikin-sago, all integral parts of the decoration process.

Intricate technique of cutting and applying raden (mother-of-pearl)

Raden, an inlay of iridescent sea shells showcasing seven brilliant colors, traditionally adorns lacquerware. However, Miyake Kougei has pioneered a unique approach, delicately processing raden for application onto kimonos, imparting an elegant shimmer to uchikake.

Explore Exquisite Artifacts at the Recently Unveiled Gallery

Following an intimate look at the intricate kimono making stages, the tour proceeds to the newly unveiled gallery. This exclusive exhibition showcases pieces unavailable elsewhere, including commissions from foreign royalties and collaborative creations for international film productions. Among them, resplendent uchikake adorning the racks exude opulent elegance. Exploring the gallery post-insight into the meticulous uchikake creation process promises a profound appreciation compared to a visit sans such insights.

On display are renowned and exclusive uchikake works, including private collections and collaborations with prominent international films

Uchikake Fabric Crafting Experience

After the studio and gallery tour, you can try your hand at applying gold glaze to a postcard-sized uchikake fabric. To create the fabric, you will begin by selecting a favorite design from seasonal flower patterns. Then, you will delve into the essential gold glazing techniques, including gold leaf application, softening powdered gold, and dusting the powder onto the chosen flower pattern. With guidance from Mr. Miyake, you will craft your piece to your liking and have it framed for a finished product.