Rock Garden Zazen Meditation and Coffee Time at Shiga’s Seigan-ji

Ancient serenity ensconced in nature: Seiganji

A mere 7 minute walk from Maibara station, where the shinkansen bullet trains stop, at the base of a tranquil mountain, Seiganji’s location couldn’t be better. The original temple that stood here burned down in 1504, with only the statue of its patron Bodhisattva Kannon surviving. It was rebuilt as the current Seiganji in 1650.

Seiganji’s temple gate framed by the greenery of summer. Autumn reds and browns here are a sight to behold

The crown jewel of Seiganji temple is its rock garden, with its distinctive juxtaposition of harsh rocks and gentle moss. The 1678 work of the same landscape artist who designed the famous garden inside of Hikone Castle, this otherworldly landscape is meant to portray Mount Potalaka, or Fudaraku in Japanese, the mythic divine mountain where the merciful Bodhisattva Kannon dwells.

The central rock represents an island, while the moss takes the place of the usual raked sand to represent a waterless pond

Highly unique for a Japanese Edo-period garden, which are usually separated into two distinct types, Seiganji’s functions as both a “wet” and a “dry” arrangement. In periods of heavy rain or snowmelt, the symbolic pond becomes a literal one, moss-covered grounds filling with water to create an ethereal atmosphere.

A guided tour through this nationally-recognized special place of scenic beauty by the head priest himself

The first glimpse of the garden upon entering the temple is like something out of a painting. While taking in this view, the head priest will offer an enlightening talk on the significance of Seiganji and the garden, including fascinating stories about even the meaning of particular rocks.

While guests take in the garden, the chief priest explains its significance

The charm of the garden’s exquisitely-arranged pine trees and rocks changes from season to season. Fresh verdure in spring, rain drenched in the wet season, green set at dazzling relief against the blue summer sky, dappled bright with the fiery hues of Autumn, and the piled sheets and powder white of winter. Nature reveals itself in the quiet of the temple grounds, in the chirping of birds and the sound of the wind, and becomes a source of healing.

A Jizo statue, guardian of travelers and children, content in the garden

Feeling history in the quiet of the main hall

The main hall enshrines a 1375 statue of the Bodhisattva Kannon. Kannon is a popular figure of compassion in Buddhism who delays her own entry into Nirvana in order to stay behind and help others. The face of this particular Kannon, who escaped the fires of war, is said to change mood to match that of the person praying to her. Grasp your fortune in your hands and pay her a visit. It may bring you deeper into touch with your own feelings.

The head priest is your attentive guide

Also in the main hall, you can find an Eleven-faced Bodhisattva Kannon statue, as well as work by 19th Century calligrapher Meikaku Kusakabe, known as one of “Three Brushes of the Meiji Period.” Seiganji was the family temple of the Kusakabes, who visited it for generations even before Meikaku.

“Rei Getsu Ha Un,” a piece by calligrapher Meikaku Kusakabe

Clear your mind and restore your body with zazen meditation

The drawing room overlooking the garden, named “Rokutan-an,” was built as a retreat for Morita Goyu, the 64th head priest of Eiheiji Temple, in 1904. At Seiganji, Zazen meditation is usually conducted in the main hall, but exclusively on the Wabunka plans, guests can perform it in this gorgeous, garden-view seclusion. The head priest will guide even complete newcomers to zazen with care.

Rokutan-an drawing room enjoys a sweeping view and invigorating garden breezes

Soto sect zazen meditation is traditionally performed facing a wall. However, the head priest wants guests to be able to find repose in the spirit of zazen without the constraints of formality. Guests can place their zabu cushion down and sit wherever they like. Those who find it uncomfortable to sit at floor level may also perform zazen meditation in a chair. The head priest will instruct you in the traditional crossed leg position, but you are free to readjust as comfortable for you.

The luxury of doing nothing

When the head priest has guided you in how to place your hands and feet, you can still your mind. Bask in the gentle garden breeze, feeling an uncanny calm come over you. In the modern age, with its infinite demands on our attention, doing nothing is high opulence. Your time spent under the guidance of the head priest will leave you feeling lighter in mind and body.

After meditation, a free-flowing chat with the priest in the temple quiet, about everything from meditation practices and the temple garden to the counseling about the worries of life will help you feel more at home.

Gardenview bliss in the temple teahouse

With your burdens lifted, visit “Kissako,” a rare temple teahouse conceived of by the head priest as another way to enjoy the tranquility of the garden. In the Wabunka plan, you can choose your favorite drinks and dessert from a menu including juice, matcha tea, matcha tea latte, and siphon coffee meticulously brewed by the head priest.

Brewing the signature “Chief Priest’s Siphon Coffee” from choice beans

Desserts range from mildly sweet matcha gateau chocolat to pudding and seasonal cakes. Enjoy your meal in the tranquil atmosphere while feasting your eyes on the view of the Seiganji garden.

Full-bodied matcha gateau chocolat with the signature Chief Priest’s Siphon Coffee

Cookie tin keepsake with a smiling Jizo

A tin of handmade, additive-free cookies, contents varying with the seasons, serves as a keepsake of the experience. Starting with the sesame Jizo-motif cookie, others include matcha and strawberry.

Souvenir cookie tin with an adorable Jizo motif

“Empty” time away from worldly troubles

Soothe your soul in the profound temple atmosphere, taking in the beauty of the garden. Zazen meditation clears the mind and unbinds the heart, freeing you to return to a renewed everyday life and be authentically present in life.

Sip a delicious cup of coffee while drinking in the therapeutic garden view

Your step will already be lighter and your mind unburdened as you make your way home. Seiganji Temple will leave you with the gentle smile of a Jizo statue.