Special Temple Tour and Zazen Meditation at Kyoto’s Komyo-in, Called the "Rainbow Moss Temple"

Tofuku-ji Komyo-in Zen Temple: Ensconced in Tranquility, Beloved by Those in the Know 

Tofuku-ji is emblematic of Kyoto Zen. Just a five minute walk south from its main gate Rokuharamon sit the gates of Komyo-in, a temple on a hill and one of Tofukuji’s 25 sub-temples, developed in 1391 under 70th Chief Priest Kinzan Minsho.

The main temple gates of Komyo-in, situated on a hill of Higashiyama, Kyoto

Beyond its central figure of the Buddha Shaka Nyorai, Komyo-in also houses an image of the tutelary goddess Marishisonten, known in India as Marici, a deva of good fortune whose true form is shimmering heat and light incarnate. This true form is fluid and incomprehensible, and she is said to be capable of advancing under any circumstances past any obstruction – making her a popular object of worship for military commanders and a goddess of warfare during the tumultuous Sengoku period (15th-16th centuries).

The entrance has a special significance as a gateway to Buddhism itself

The Hashintei garden is one of Komyo-in’s main attractions: a dry landscape pond garden designed in 1939 by Mirei Shigemori, who is famous for an impressive body of garden designs including the world-famous Hojo Garden at Tofukuji Temple and Matsuo Taisha’s shrine garden.

The Hashintei garden behind the temple

The Hashintei features 48 large stones and three Buddhist scenes (the Shaka Triad, Amida Triad, and the Yakushi Triad) sitting upon white sands representing the seas, set against the dark backdrop of moss and trees whose contrast lends the garden an aura of profound Zen harmony.

The Beauty of the Hashintei, Microcosm of the Realm of Enlightenment

First you’ll take in the garden from the main hall, with commentary from the chief priest. The Hashintei is designed around the concept of “the Light of Hope,” or komyo, from which the temple derives its name. The use of immutable stone and sand as its central focal point surrounded by the living capriciousness of plant life is meant to symbolize core truths which remain vital and constant even in changing environments – invoked exquisitely even by the garden’s name, where hashin means “Undulating heart,” and tei means “garden.” Enjoy it from a variety of angles and let it speak to you.

Soft light radiating gently through the temple doors

The Hashintei is resplendent with seasonal colors, garnering it the nickname “Rainbow Moss Temple.” In early summer, the satsuki and tsutsuji azaleas reach full bloom, followed later in summer by the green maple leaves, then finally the rich hues of autumn foliage. During the monsoons, heavy rains form a pond atop the white sands, making the verdant moss that much more striking.

The Ragetsuan tearoom, also designed by Mirei Shigemori

Feel free to pay a special visit to the Ragetsuan tearoom, situated on a hill overlooking the Hashintei.* The ragetsu in its name means “moon peeking through vines,” and the circular motif at its entrance is meant to invoke the image of the moon. This tearoom is not usually opened to the public, and it offers a little-seen view of the temple with the Kyoto skyline behind it.

*Since the Ragetsuan Tearoom is a short walk from the temple hall, it may be omitted from the itinerary due to weather or guest wishes.

Painted Sliding Doors and Other Works of Traditional Japanese Art

The Komyo-in structure itself is full of many architectural and artistic flourishes drawn from Zen symbolism. Windows come in circles, squares, and triangles. Other details evoke the shapes of gourds, catfish, and hearts. Discovering these motifs is part of the joy of walking its halls.

A fascinating discovery awaits around every corner, in every nook and cranny

Learn all about the interplay between Zen philosophy and aesthetics, including the traditional techniques used to turn sliding doors into works of art and paint wall scrolls. The chief priest sees the temple as sitting at the fulcrum of a process unfolding since ancient times: “Living artists create the cultural heritage of succeeding generations, and one of our roles as a temple is to protect these and help hand them down.” To this end, the temple displays works by promising young artists such as its sliding doors by contemporary painter Yuta Niwa. The works on display change with the seasons, and visitors will likely encounter future treasures among them.

The Unryuzu, or “Dragon in Clouds Painting,” watches over the training halls with an expression said to change according to the viewing angle

Zen Philosophy and Zazen Practice to Take Home with You

After your tour with the chief priest, you can learn Zen and experience zazen meditation in the second floor Kanteiro viewing room of the temple study, which is normally closed to the public. Learn how to sit, how to place your arms and legs, how to breathe, and how to prepare your mind for meditation. “For those fixated on their own thoughts,” says the chief priest, “the sounds of others nearby can be distracting or even annoying, but with a still heart you will discover the reality that these noises are no different from the calls of birds outside.”

Capture the undulating rhythms and flow of your own mind through zazen meditation

The second floor offers a very different view of the Hashintei garden than the first, and with it comes a different atmosphere. Center yourself with zazen, and experience the sensation of seeing the world anew and with it the importance of perspective.

A moment of respite and conversation over matcha and sweets

When the experience is finished, enjoy a free and open-ended chat with the chief priest over matcha tea and sweets. He hopes visitors can come face to face with themselves and enjoy their time here at leisure, and his hospitality is sure to soothe your mind.

The Quiet Heart of Zen

Exclusive to the Wabunka plan, enjoy the additional option of private after-hours access to the temple. Enjoy the sunset and the ethereal atmosphere there that follows.* Experience zazen meditation under the light of traditional Japanese candles and immerse yourself in the quiet tranquility of zen at night. 

*Start time varies with the seasonal timing of sunset.

The softly night-lit garden, all to yourself

Deepen your understanding of Zen through this plan’s special tour and zazen meditation. “The Buddha always answers those whose hearts seek enlightenment,” says the chief priest. Find that yearning in your own heart during your blissful visit to Komyo-in.