Savor History with Edomae Sushi and a Guided Art Museum Tour in Ryogoku, Tokyo

Ryogoku: Where Edomae Sushi Was Born from Edokko’s Love of Seafood

In 1603, Tokugawa Ieyasu unified Japan and moved the capital from Kyoto to Edo (modern-day Tokyo), ushering in 260 years of peace and prosperity when symbols of modern Japan such as kabuki theater or ukiyoe art were born. It was an era when both samurai and townspeople thrived. Those commoners born in the capital called themselves “Edokko” (children of Edo), developing a unique aesthetic and way of life focused on elegance and the finer things in life.

Tokyo’s Ryogoku townscape, its tranquil atmosphere very different from the nearby Asakusa

The essence of Edo lives on in Ryogoku where it is said that Edomae sushi was first invented. Originating in a time before refrigeration or rapid transport, this style of sushi is characterized by seafood toppings that are preserved by pickling, salting, or boiling and eaten in one bite with vinegared rice. This commoner “fast food” quickly grew in popularity and became part of Japan’s seafood culture together with unagi eel, tempura, and dishes. Fish and the sea often feature in 18th-century ukiyoe paintings and woodblock prints by Katsushika Hokusai.

Fishing Boats at Choshi in Shimosa (Soshu Choshi) from the series “One Thousand Pictures of the Ocean (Chie no umi)”, Katsushika Hokusai, the Art Institute of Chicago. Image for illustrative purposes only

Dynamic and Innovative Culinary Creations

The Wabunka experience starts off with a visit to the Karin restaurant, which opened in May 2024. “I first thought about opening my own restaurant when I was a teenager,” recalls owner Shunta Hashimoto. After graduating from culinary school, he decided to specialize in Japanese cuisine and trained at Tatsumiya in Uji, Kyoto. He then entered the world of sushi in his hometown of Miyazaki, honing his skills at the Hakata main shop of Takasho, a members-only sushi restaurant based in Fukuoka. Hashimoto also worked as head chef at an affiliated restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo, before opening Karin.

The exterior of Karin, hidden away in a quiet alley a 2-minute walk from Ryogoku Station

Hashimoto values personal connections and has worked hard to develop contacts in the industry using his pleasant demeanor and a focus on family. For example, the second kanji character in “Karin” comes from his grandfather’s name, with his father and uncle, both French chefs, being inspirations for his cooking methods. “I try to challenge myself and innovate by using ingredients like butter and wine,” he says.

Commemorative display celebrating Karin’s first tuna purchase.

Cutting Up a Tuna Fresh from the Toyosu Market Right in Front of the Participants

Tuna has been a popular sushi ingredient since the Edo Period (1603 – 1868). With Wabunka's exclusive experience, you will be able to observe the processing of a whole block of tuna in a private, rented-out restaurant. The massive block is purchased from Yunoka, a well-known Toyosu wholesaler, and will produce just one chiaigishi, a rare part obtained from alongside the tuna’s back, which contains various cuts used in sushi. “It has both the medium-fatty chutoro and the dark-red lean meat that tuna is famous for,” says Hashimoto.

The chef removes the skin, bones, and the meat close to the spine to obtain various cuts of tuna

The Karin restaurant has 10 counter seats that give participants a front-row view of the chef’s skills. “The key is to not force the knife but to cut the fish smoothly,” explains Hashimoto. “This helps preserve the tuna’s texture and freshness.” Few people get to see the skills required to quickly carve a huge block of tuna up close. The sight of a beautifully sliced piece of fish is also sure to become a cherished memory.

From left to right: Chutoro (medium-fatty tuna), Akami (lean tuna), and Otoro (fatty tuna)

Experience the Essence of Edomae Sushi During a Nigiri Hand-Pressed Sushi Course

Once the chef is done cutting the block of tuna, you will savor 10 pieces of Edomae sushi, including ones made from the tuna used in the demonstration. Other featured ingredients are flash-seared golden-eye snapper characterized by a rich, savory flavor and a pleasant sweetness to its fatty parts. Then there is the golden cuttlefish topping with its chewy texture and a lightly scored surface, another inventive and classic ingredient of Edomae sushi.

Beautiful, masterful knife work is a highlight

Be sure to also pay attention to the shari rice base for the toppings, which are known as neta. Karin uses rice from Sumidaya, a long-established Sumida Ward supplier founded over 120 years ago. To achieve the right texture and flavor, Hashimoto uses a blend of Sasanishiki and Koshihikari rice.

Karin’s attention to detail shines through even in the rice

“We use a small amount of water and cook the rice under high pressure,” explains Hashimoto. This helps the rice absorb more vinegar, giving it a tart, salty flavor that is the calling card of Edomae sushi. Karin’s rice is known for being filling and provides the perfect base for toppings carefully selected by Hashimoto at Toyosu, which he prepares with great care. Do not miss this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to taste the essence of Edomae sushi.

Once you know how much effort goes into each piece of sushi, you will surely enjoy it more

Feel the Past Come Alive Through the Ukiyoe Art of Katsushika Hokusai

After the sushi experience, you will head to the Sumida Hokusai Museum, just a 3-minute walk from Karin. The museum has a collection of about 2,000 ukiyoe works by Katsushika Hokusai, who was born and raised in Sumida during the Edo Period, as well as his students, who all captured Edo city life, folk tales, and landscapes in colorful woodblock prints and paintings. The museum has an impressive permanent ukiyoe collection and holds many themed special exhibitions. It also uses digital tools to educate visitors about Hokusai’s life and his works in multiple languages.

The Sumida Hokusai Museum was built on the site of a powerful feudal lord’s mansion

The guided tour of the museum will take up to 1 hour, but once it is over, you will be able to stay behind and enjoy the exhibitions as much as you want. Hokusai left behind a treasure trove of works during his 70-year-long career. Many of them depict famous Edo landmarks related to Sumida, such as Ryogoku Bridge. By admiring these works, you will feel the people and culture of the Edo Period come to life right before your eyes (Exhibits vary by day. The Great Wave may not be on display on the day of the tour.)

* The guided tour destination can be changed to somewhere besides the Sumida Hokusai Museum upon request.

Under the Wave off Kanagawa (Kanagawa oki nami ura), also known as The Great Wave, from the series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji (Fugaku sanjurokkei), the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Image for illustrative purposes only

Learn, Reflect, and Take a Jaunt Back in Time

Hokusai continued to produce ukiyoe until he was nearly 90. Even before his death, he was celebrated both in Japan and abroad, having inspired the likes of Vincent van Gogh and other famous artists. His career seems to mirror that of Edomae sushi, the fast food born from a quest for preservation, which also has grown into one of the symbols of Japan while containing the spirit of Edo.

Ponder history at Karin’s Yakusugi cedar counter that emanates natural warmth

This experience in Tokyo’s Ryogoku combines food and art to educate you about Japanese culture. Come discover the spirit of the Edo Period with Wabunka.