Discover Traditional Asakusa through Wagashi Making and a Guided Sensoji-temple Tour

Sensoji — A Temple with Over 1,400 Years of History — and Its Guardian, Kaminarimon Gate

One of Tokyo’s most popular tourist attractions, Sensoji Temple in the Asakusa district has a history dating back to the 7th century. It is said to trace its origins to the year 628, when a statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, was pulled out from the nearby Sumida River. The statue, which is also known as the Asakusa Kannon, was then enshrined in the grounds that would eventually become Sensoji Temple.

Each year, around 30 million people from all over the world visit Sensoji Temple

On the grounds of Sensoji Temple are many traditional buildings, including Kannon-do (Kannon Hall) — the main hall — and a five-story pagoda. However, the most famous symbol of Sensoji is its main gate, Kaminarimon. Built in 942 by the military commander Taira no Kinmasa, the Kaminarimon Gate has undergone several reconstructions throughout its existence. The current Kaminarimon was rebuilt in 1960 with the help of a donation from Konosuke Matsushita, founder of Matsushita Electric (now Panasonic).

A peaceful moment at Kaminarimon Ryokan

Located right next to Kaminarimon is Kaminarimon Ryokan, which was founded in 1947. This historic, long-running ryokan inn has seen its neighborhood undergo various changes over time. In 2019, it was renovated with renowned architect Kiyoshi Sey Takeyama, who has won awards from the Architectural Institute of Japan and many other institutions, at the helm. With “enjoying wa (Japanese style)” as its concept, this ryokan pursues traditional Japanese beauty by incorporating traditional Japanese design elements such as earthen walls — which are rarely used nowadays — and washi paper, and displaying traditional Japanese crafts throughout the facility.

Discover Asakusa through a mini tour

In this plan, you will first gather at Kaminarimon Ryokan then set off on a private tour of Sensoji Temple. You will pass through the bustling Nakamise-dori shopping street, then head to the main hall via the Hozomon Gate. Then, after paying your respects at the main hall, you will visit Asakusa Shrine. This will be a valuable moment to delve into the history of Asakusa, as, during the tour, your guide will share fascinating trivia about Sensoji Temple's Kaminarimon Gate and the wishes behind its lanterns, the differences in ways to worship at a temple and a shrine, and more.

Learn from an Artisan Determined to Pass Down Wagashi’s Legacy to Future Generations

After the tour, you will return to Kaminarimon Ryokan to begin the wagashi sweets-making experience. Your instructor will be Masaya Eiyo, a wagashi artisan who runs Wagashi Momofune. Born as the third generation to inherit a wagashi shop established by his grandfather, Eiyo trained at a famous wagashi shop before going independent.

Eiyo has more than 20 years of experience as a wagashi artisan

In contrast to the convention of setting up shop to gain customers, Eiyo does not have a storefront of his own. Instead, he is involved in various wagashi-related endeavors, mainly collaborations with long-established ryotei (high-end traditional restaurants), chefs, and tea-ceremony practitioners. He also conveys the beauty and appeal of wagashi through wagashi-making workshops.

Eiyo’s jo-namagashi sweets express Japan’s unique aesthetic and seasonal sensibilities

Witness a Wagashi Artisan’s Expertise Through a Demonstration

The wagashi-making experience will begin with a demonstration and explanations from Eiyo on how to make fresh, high-grade wagashi called jo-namagashi. Despite their high quality, jo-namagashi require very simple raw ingredients: white bean paste for the base and Japanese yam to hold the bean paste together. It is nothing short of incredible to see how these simple and plain-looking ingredients are transformed in Eiyo's hands into beautiful and refined confections in an instant.

Through traditional tools and delicate work, the ingredients are shaped into seasonal flowers

Wagashi are made with special tools such as sankaku-bera (triangular wooden sticks) and uragoshi strainers. With changing times leading to fewer opportunities to enjoy jo-namagashi, the number of artisans making these tools has also been decreasing. Thus, Eiyo holds workshops and other activities with the goal of promoting and passing down to future generations the precious traditional tools and techniques that his predecessors have developed over time.

This is an opportunity to see and touch wagashi-making tools, which you may not commonly see in your daily life, up close

Make Two Types of Wagashi While Listening to the Artisan’s Explanations

After the demonstration, it will finally be time for you to make wagashi on your own. You will use colored bean paste to create two types of themed nerikiri, kneaded wagashi. In line with Japanese tradition, the theme, which changes on a monthly basis, is meant to evoke the current season.

Even just squeezing wagashi with a tea towel gives each piece a different finish

The two jo-namagashi made for this article were themed after cherry blossoms, a symbol of spring. One is called hanaikada (flower raft), a term that calls to mind fallen petals floating on the water’s surface. The other one, which is shaped with a spatula, is called urazakura (cherry blossoms in reverse) because it resembles a cherry blossom as seen from the back — a design passed down from Eiyo’s grandfather. You will surely be impressed by Eiyo’s skill and sensibilities when it comes to expressing the season’s beauty through wagashi.

The themes of the jo-namagashi are seasonal, varying every month

Among your two finished wagashi, one will be served along with matcha tea prepared by Eiyo. Freshly made jo-namagashi has an exceptional flavor, as well as a melt-in-your-mouth texture that is much smoother than one might imagine. Many jo-namagashi have themes that reflect classical designs, and Eiyo’s explanations on the background and context of these sweets are sure to further deepen your understanding of wagashi.

The rich umami of matcha draws out the sweetness of jo-namagashi sweets

Encountering Japanese Traditions at Asakusa, Where History and Culture Intersect

Wagashi making techniques developed alongside the tea ceremony during the Edo period (1603–1868). The classic way to make wagashi involves shaping the dough with simple tools while it is in the palm of one’s hand. As this method does not involve unnecessary materials and reduces waste, it is also tied to the ancient Japanese mentality of valuing things.

Experience traditional Japanese culture with all five senses by making wagashi at a ryokan

Learn about this Japanese mentality and more through as you visit Sensoji Temple, which has been a place of worship for around 1,400 years, and make wagashi. This will be a valuable opportunity for you to encounter Japan’s customs and sense of aesthetics.