Incense Appreciation Experience at a Private Venue Facing a Scenic Garden in Kyoto

A Moment of Elegance and Refined Scents at a Scenic Garden by Ijuin Kanetsune

On the south side of the Ichinofunairi neighborhood — the starting point of the Takase River — and adjacent to Hotel Okura Kyoto is Kosei-in Temple, which was originally built during the Meiji era (1868–1912) as a mansion by Ijuin Kanetsune. The mansion was later acquired by the Hirose family, and since 1952, it has quietly operated as a Buddhist temple of the Rinzai sect.

Designated by Kyoto City as a Place of Scenic Beauty, this garden is a groundbreaking example of modern Japanese landscaping, with its surrounding buildings integrated with its water currents

A samurai turned industrialist, architect, and landscapist, Ijuin Kanetsune also owned the land where Hotel Okura Kyoto now stands. His clan, which gained prominence as retainers in the Satsuma Domain, is said to trace their lineage from Ki no Tsurayuki, a high-ranking court noble and prominent literary figure representative of the Heian period (794–1185).

After the Meiji Restoration, Kanetsune became involved in the construction of imperial residences and the glamorous Rokumeikan. With a strong interest in gardens, he came up with many innovative ideas for Japanese gardening. His deep knowledge made him a respected figure in Japanese landscape gardening, with politician Aritomo Yamagata, who oversaw the gardening of Kyoto's Murin-an, and Jihei Ogawa, a representative landscapist of the Meiji era, having cited him among their influences.

Zikido Ichifune is the renovated former home of Uta Hirose, founder of Kosei-in

For example, Kosei-in’s garden, whose construction was supervised by Kanetsune, draws water from the Takase River. The water flows through the garden, then back to the river. The long granite bridge at the center of the pond is uniquely designed, with many wedge marks engraved on it. However, it harmoniously blends in with the pond’s flowing water. Designated by Kyoto City as a Place of Scenic Beauty, this garden is usually closed to the public, but this experience will give you the opportunity to view the garden as your guide introduces it.

A Kodo Mishina Oheryu-Style Private Experience at a Counter with a Garden View

After viewing the garden, it is time for the kodo experience, which will be held at the counter seats of Zikido Ichifune, which became open for bookings from the general public only fairly recently and will be privately reserved for your group. From the venue’s large open windows, you can look out onto the beautiful garden and be soothed by its lush greenery. Zikido Ichifune, too, is a work of art in itself, as its outer walls facing the garden and blue interior walls are by one of Japan's leading plasterers, Naoki Kusumi. Additionally, the paintings on the walls are by world-renowned artist Kohei Nawa.

Zikido Ichifune’s counter seats will make you feel as if you are relaxing right in Kosei-in’s garden

In this special Wabunka-exclusive plan, you will learn kodo under the guidance of an instructor from the Kodo Mishina Oheryu school. Kodo Mishina Oheryu traces its roots to Ryuho Oeda, a famous incense master and literary figure who was also knowledgeable about sencha tea and flower arrangement.

A lesson in refinement from the Kodo Mishina Oheryu school of incense appreciation

Experience an Abridged Version of Kodo Mishina Oheryu’s Essence

This experience condenses Kodo Mishina Oheryu’s core teachings into a short program that first-timers can also easily follow. First, you will arrange a single type of flower in a vase based on a theme corresponding to the 24 solar terms (or micro-seasons) of the traditional lunar calendar. Keeping in mind Kodo Mishina Oheryu’s emphasis on freedom of style and elegant expression, arrange the flower in a way that expresses your feelings in the moment. After the experience, you can take home the vase, complete with the flower you arranged.

You will arrange a single type of flower in a vase according to the theme

One unique point of this experience is that you will start by shaping a pile of ash for burning incense. First, put incense ash into a burner, then use incense tongs to soften the ash. Place tadon, a specialized type of charcoal that burns brightly, in the center, and sweep ash from the edges to the center to form a mound. It is important to let plenty of air in as you stir the ash to make it soft and fluffy.

The time spent on preparations is also one of the joys of the experience

Sharpen Your Senses as You Enter the Deep World of Incense Smelling

Next, turn the incense burner toward you, and use an ash press to press down and shape the pile of ash into a cone. Once the ash is neatly shaped, use tongs to create an opening in the center of the mound. This will allow fire to reach the tadon.

Working quickly with a steady rhythm is key

Once the incense burner is ready, place small pieces of incense wood on top of a sheet of mica called ginyou. The type of incense wood you will use will vary according to the season. Then, wait for the fragrance to permeate the air. The same incense wood releases different scents depending on where it is placed. This is the profound nature of monko (literally translated to “listening to incense”), the practice of smelling and deeply appreciating incense, that can only be understood by experiencing it for yourself.

Simply focus on the scent of incense, and forget the hustle and bustle of daily life

Taste the Finest Uji Matcha Cultivated the Traditional Way

After the kodo experience, unwind with seasonal sweets and matcha green tea, which you will have the opportunity to prepare yourself. The tea is from Yamamoto Jinjiro, a tea shop now in its sixth generation, run by a family of tea farmers in Uji, Kyoto. Cultivated through an approximately 400-year-old traditional method called honzu, tea leaves are harvested by hand, then processed in Japan's oldest Horii-style drying furnace for tencha (powdered green tea). This makes the tea single-origin and gives it a strong umami flavor with only a hint of bitterness.

A nowadays-rare example of single-origin tea: made from a single variety, from a single tea plantation

As you gaze out at the garden, take the time to compare your impressions of the scents with your companions and process what you learned about the Ijuin family and the history of Kyoto. After all, in these modern times, a time to use your imagination while taking in the natural fragrance of incense wood can be quite refreshing. Feel free to stroll around the garden as well.

An open counter where you can practically feel the greenery right before your eyes

Kodo Mishina Oheryu hopes that this experience will leave guests with a finer appreciation for the fragrance of incense, and that it will teach guests how to add touches of elegance to their daily lives. Let this experience be a gateway to the world of kodo and a lesson in incorporating incense into your life.