Maiko Tea and Entertainment with Behind-the-Scenes Insights at Kyoto’s Oldest Geisha District

An Invitation to Umeno, a Traditional Establishment in Kyoto’s Oldest Geisha District

A mere 20-minute bus ride from landmarks like Nijo Castle, the Imperial Palace, and Kinkaku-ji Temple lies Kamishichiken, the oldest of Kyoto’s five hanamachi (geisha districts). Strolling through the peaceful streets lined with traditional machiya townhouses, it is easy to imagine scenes of times gone by, with kimono-clad townspeople and chattering customers eager to be entertained.

Soak up the serenity of old Kyoto at Kamishichiken

One of the district’s remaining ochaya (establishments where geiko and maiko entertain) and okiya (lodging for maiko) is Umeno, founded over 40 years ago by former geiko Yoshie Nakaji. Today, she continues to uphold Kyoto’s hanamachi culture and hospitality alongside her daughter Yuko, who also advocates sustainable practices while sharing valuable insights through social media and now, this Wabunka experience.

Go behind the scenes of maiko culture at Umeno

As Umeno’s proprietress-to-be, Yuko Nakaji invites you to enter a world that is famously difficult to access. While most ochaya only accept established customers, this experience includes not only time with a maiko, but also hospitality personally provided by Ms Nakaji and entry to the okiya’s dressing room, an extremely rare privilege.

Experience hanamachi hospitality in a way like no other

Learn About Maiko Culture Through a Dance and Explanations

When you arrive at Umeno, Ms Nakaji will warmly welcome you to step through to the ozashiki, a banquet room for entertainment. While the floors use the customary tatami mats, guests do not have to sit with their legs folded due to the hollowed out area below the table, ensuring modern comfort in a traditional Kyoto setting. Indeed, Umeno is the only ochaya in Kamishichiken to have renovated their machiya (townhouse) building like this. 

Umeno’s ozashiki area provides the perfect blend of convenience and Japanese style

There, you will meet a stunning maiko who will perform a dance composed of subtle yet masterful movements honed through intense training. Take in the elegance of every moment as she deftly maneuvers her long kimono and conveys meaning without the need for exaggerated facial expressions.

The long obi belt is an iconic part of every maiko’s ensemble

Then, learn about maiko and geiko culture from Ms Nakaji. Her fascinating explanations are enhanced by having a real life maiko before your eyes, making it easy to understand details about her elaborate outfit - a kimono, obi belt, and more - and life in the hanamachi.

Chat with a Maiko Over Masterfully Made Matcha and Wagashi

Living as a maiko means great commitment to the arts, including traditional dance, song, and tea ceremony. Although tea made by geiko and maiko is available for the general public at occasions like the annual spring shows held by each geisha district, this experience is a rare opportunity to watch a maiko prepare tea by your side.

Witness the maiko’s matcha-making skills up close

As you enjoy your matcha and wagashi (traditional Japanese confectionery), take advantage of your time together to chat with the maiko and Ms Nakaji about anything, from the inspirations behind their respective paths to their daily routines.

Each treat is personally sourced by Ms Nakaji from historic confectioners, like Kamishichiken’s very own Oimatsu (wagashi pictured is for reference only)

Try a Traditional Game and Take Photos

After getting to know the maiko and Ms Nakaji, it’s time to try your hand at a traditional party game called Konpira Fune Fune. The simple rules and the rhythm of the maiko’s sweet voice make it easy to play even if you don’t understand Japanese. 

Enjoy interacting with the maiko through a fun game

Before parting with the maiko, be sure to take some more pictures any way you like. Whether you prefer to capture a conventional front-facing portrait, focus on a certain aspect of her outfit, or even snap a selfie, the choice is yours.

Insights into Umeno’s Sustainable Practices and Exclusive Access to the Okiya Dressing Room

During your time at Umeno, you’ll not only be entertained, but also learn about its sustainable practices, a cause close to Ms Nakaji’s own heart. Inspired by the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals, she decided to breathe new life into kimono and obi belts retired due to damage and natural ageing by upcycling them into the Kimono Maiko line of bags, clothing, and accessories, also making geiko and maiko culture easier to enjoy for visitors from overseas.

A stunning bag made from fabric taken from a striking red inner kimono formerly worn by maiko

Ms Nakaji comments, “I thought to myself that it was such a waste for kimono to be discarded even though so much of the fabric could still be used.”

Finally, gain unprecedented access to the Umeno okiya’s dressing room, where Ms Nakaji will take you behind the scenes by introducing two vital elements of each maiko’s enchanting appearance: their white makeup and kanzashi hair ornaments. 

Ms Nakaji will show you the tools used to create geiko and maiko’s iconic white makeup

While it is possible to catch glimpses of such a space in documentaries and other media following the lives of geiko and maiko, this Wabunka experience presents an exceedingly rare chance to see it with your own eyes and learn about the various tools and materials used daily by these sophisticated entertainers. 

Appreciate the Depth of Maiko Culture and Hanamachi Hospitality

Visiting Umeno with Wabunka will not only allow you to experience Kyoto’s famed maiko culture, but also understand it in a way like no other. In addition to literally going behind the scenes, guests are encouraged to freely ask Ms Nakaji about anything that may pique their curiosity. She comments, “Although times are changing, there are still young women who come to Kyoto hoping to become a maiko, going on to learn and hone their craft. This culture is unique to Kyoto, and I would like for more people to be aware of it, as well as support maiko and their efforts.”

Ms Nakaji is committed to supporting maiko and geiko culture so that it can be passed down to future generations

In addition to appreciating the charming beauty of the maiko and the work that goes into it, you are sure to feel the warmth of Ms Nakaji’s sincere hospitality: “I will always do my absolute best to make sure you enjoy your time here.” Whether it is your first or fifth time in Kyoto, a day at Umeno will stay with you long after you return home.